Learning Things About My Hometown

From King Nutmeg:

I spent the first 22 years of my life in Simsbury, Connecticut, but I never got to know the town as well as I would've liked. Over the past dozen years or so, I've learned more about the town - see the bottom of this post for links to previous posts about Simsbury. In town recently for the annual golf tournament that I play in, I wandered through downtown. Frankly, I can't believe I haven't done this walk before with camera in hand. While I was familiar with most of what I saw, there were still a few surprises.

The biggest eye-opener was the first place I saw, the little building below, which is located on Phelps Lane, behind the Simsbury Historical Society compound. I'll discuss that area shortly.

Located a short distance from a restaurant that I've eaten at many times over the years, the former Probate Court was built in 1876. This Gothic Revival structure is home to the Simsbury Land Trust, and may just be the most adorable building in town. How have I never noticed this building?!

Along Station Street, which runs parallel to and south of Phelps Lane, I spotted two of the most well-known businesses in town.

Welden Hardware opened in 1889 - and I've never stepped foot into the store. I'm not even sure how long the business has been in this building. I believe it was formerly located next door (or perhaps part of the store still is), where another Simsbury stalwart is located.

Vincent Sport Shop (aka Vincent's) recently relocated from around the corner on Hopmeadow Street, the main drag through town. According to this Living Places article about the Simsbury Center Historic District, the brick building dates to 1900. The article refers to it as the Welden Hardware building. I don't know how long Vincent's has been in business, but it's certainly many decades. I have actually shopped here, I'm happy to say. The Vincent family is well-established in Simsbury, operating a funeral home nearby since 1902.

From here I walked down to Railroad Street, heading south. I crossed Wilcox Street, walked through a small parking lot and was soon standing in front of a fantastic former train station.

"The Central of New England Railroad Station, 736 Hopmeadow Street, ca.1880, is a one-story frame rectangular building, with bracketed roof overhang," per the Living Places article. The Central of New England Railroad eventually became the New Haven Railroad, I believe, and then the Penn Central. Railroads histories are difficult, as there were so many mergers in the 19th century. There was a line called the Hartford and New Haven Railroad, which ran between New Haven and Springfield, Massachusetts, and this might be the one in question here.

Currently at this location is Powdermen Spirits, a micro-distillery crafting whiskies, bourbon and vodka, per its Facebook page.

The old station faces the rear of a really cool complex with red-brick and red sandstone buildings. Tenants include retailers, small offices and a restaurant.

The Red Stone Pub is located in a former brick home that dates to 1904, per the restaurant's web site. I haven't eaten here, but I've heard the food and brews are really good.

A stable and carriage house were built the same year, using red sandstone from the nearby Ketchin Quarry. The owner was Ralph Hart Ensign, managing partner of Ensign Bickford & Company, a manufacturer at that time of safety fuses and detonating cord. E-B, as the company was known locally, was founded in 1836 in Simsbury. Its business grew to include missile and launch vehicle technology that was developed for Sandia National Laboratories; and space ordnance used by NASA.

As a kid, I regularly heard controlled explosions coming from E-B's test sites in the woods of town. In August 1984, however, I was at home when an explosion rocked my house so hard, I thought a truck had driven into the house. A major conflagration in the Powder Forest had taken the lives of three E-B workers, I learned soon enough on the national news.

Anyway, the sandstone former stables connect to the pub in a U-shaped design, and are just simply stunning.

I'm confused by the sign on the Hilhorst & Zoon store, which says "SINDS 1477" on it. The small company offers software for investment accounting, per its listing on the Granby-Simsbury Chamber of Commerce web site. "Sinds" is a Dutch word that translates to "ever since." This is what I guessed. I'm pretty sure software didn't exist in 1477, so perhaps this sign is an inside joke.

All of these buildings are located on Jim Gallagher Way, a short road connecting Hopmeadow Street to Iron Horse Boulevard, and situated next to the Simsbury Town Visitor Center. I know Jim Gallagher, as he is the father of one of the friends I play golf with once a year. He's a great guy - really funny, smart and with an unmatched sense of Simsbury's history. I first met him when I was in my early 20s, working as a reporter for the local weekly paper (R.I.P., Farmington Valley Herald). One of my "beats" was the zoning commission, of which Jim was the chairman.

Near the corner of Wilcox Street and Iron Horse Boulevard is a curious community bulletin board.

It looks a bit like a salt or pepper shaker. It's also reminiscent of the nearby Heublein Tower, which sits atop Talcott Mountain.

Heading north along Iron Horse Boulevard -- a bypass road that didn't exist when I was growing up, named for the steam locomotives that once ran by here -- I found the quaint ticket depot for the Simsbury Meadows Performing Arts Center, another thing that didn't exist during my tenure in Simsbury. This was all farmland when I was a kid.

While this building looks historic, I believe it is a relatively new addition to the performing arts complex.

I worked my way back up to Hopmeadow Street and strolled past the historical society's compound. As a general rule, I don't make photos of museums, but I made an exception for my hometown. Below is the Phelps Tavern, which fronts on Hopmeadow Street.

"The Phelps house and tavern was owned by five generations of the Phelps family for nearly two hundred years," according to the historical society's web site. "The building served as family home, canal hotel, lodge meeting site, entertainment hall, and local tavern. From 1786 until 1849, three generations of fathers and sons, and one widow, served as tavern-keepers.

"Built for Elisha Phelps in 1771...[t]he building was a family residence until Noah Phelps, Elisha Phelps’ brother, acquired the first tavern license in 1786. His son Noah A. Phelps ran the tavern from around 1805 until his death in 1817. His widow Charlotte operated the tavern herself until her son, Jeffery Phelps, purchased the property in 1820.

"Jeffery Phelps ran the tavern for 29 years, closing the business in 1849 to devote himself to agriculture and other interests. The building was remodeled in 1879 and 1915 by resident family members, and remained a family home until it was given to the Simsbury Historical Society in 1962 as a gift by Mary Phelps Ensign Lovejoy. The last family occupants were the family of Mr. and Mrs. Jeffrey O. Phelps, 4th."

I recall stepping onto the historical society grounds just a few times as a kid. Once was during Simsbury's 300th anniversary celebration in 1970, when I was five years old. The other was for a haunted house perhaps a few years later.

The other building I photographed on the campus is a circa-1790 schoolhouse, below.

"This school was originally located on Tariffville Road in what is now Bloomfield, near the present Old Saint Andrew’s Episcopal Church," the society indicates on its web site. "At the time, this was an area of Simsbury known as Scotland; the school served Scotland North District pupils in Simsbury until 1843 when the area was annexed to the Town of Bloomfield."

OK, that's some new history for me.

"The building was modified in 1826 and served as a school house until 1933 when it was converted into a single family home. It was acquired by the Simsbury Historical Society and moved to its present location in 1970."

Back along Wilcox Street, I spied a solid stone wall that I guessed was once the property line of a large home. Currently on the site is a Bank of America branch. When I was a kid, that building was what I thought of as the "fancy bank," as it was a newer, much more modern building than the Colonial house across Hopmeadow Street where I had a savings account starting when I was pretty young.

My guess turned out to be correct, as I found out when I asked folks on a Simsbury-related Facebook group. "The property where the bank sits was the Henry Edwards Ellsworth home," one group member informed me. "I think that’s the spot where John E. Ellsworth lived in a green colored wooden structure of a beautiful home," another said, referencing Henry's son.

A third member provided some great history: "Was razed in late 60's, early 70's! There was a bowling alley in the basement and some of the wooden balls and pins reside in the Bowling Hall of Fame courtesy of Red Burnham! House was 3 story's (sic) if I remember right!"

Yet another member had fond memories of the home, where her grandmother worked. "We used to visit her there and played in the yard - the gate was there and let us get over to Pattiston’s general store. The house was really beautiful inside - Mrs Ellsworth had an elevator chair on the front stairway that we were allowed to ride on."

The Ellsworth family was obviously a well-to-do clan, with involvement in Ensign-Bickford and other local businesses.

My time running short, I headed back toward my car, and walked around the former train station and caboose that make up Plan b restaurant.

"The New Haven and Northampton Railroad Depot, 1875...was built by the successor to the New Haven and Northampton [Canal] Company, in conjunction with the Connecticut Western Railroad," per the Living Places web site cited above. "It is a rectangular brick Italianate structure with wide overhang of its gabled roof."

I'm not sure the stories behind the caboose and old engine behind the restaurant.

Next door to Plan b is a relatively new shop, A Spoonful of Britain, which sells British groceries and home decor.

I'm guessing this building was built by a railroad as well. Outside the shop, I found myself looking for Dr. Who.

Yes, I know the Tardis was located in a blue police box, not a standard red phone booth. Or at least I did once I searched online while writing this.

This all makes me think of Wee Britain:

As I was ready to head off to meet my friends for breakfast, I had to make a photo of the old mail Jeep below.

I'm pretty sure that the mailman who delivered to our house used to drive a rig like this. Brought back fond memories of my childhood in the Weatogue section of Simsbury.

For more about Simsbury, see these posts:

(see February 4, 2016, "Stealing Back Into the Past of My Hometown").

(see February 7, 2013, "President Little, Part II: From Myth to Man").

(see December 29, 2012, "Exploring Back Home").

(see September 20, 2011, "In Search of President Little").

Where Am I? Somertown? Charlesville?

From Dave Brigham:

Stepping off the Orange line train at Sullivan Square station, I thought I was in Somerville. This isn't uncommon. Traveling around the Boston area as much as I do with my son, Owen, I'm not always sure which of the city's neighborhoods I'm in, or, in this case, which municipality. Turns out I was in Charlestown, Boston's oldest neighborhood. We got into Somerville for just a little bit on this quick trip.

If you're like me, your first thought upon seeing the sign on this building on Cambridge Street was, "Why on Earth does Wile E. Coyote need bookbinding?" While maniacally chasing down the Roadrunner, Mr. Coyote availed himself of all sorts of gadgets and gear from Acme Corporation, ranging from giant rubber bands to jet-propelled tennis shoes, invisible paint to an instant icicle maker. Maybe the bookbinding is to keep his mortal enemy locked into one place, between the pages of Mr. Coyote's favorite tome.

Acme Bookbinding is located in Charlestown in the shadow of Interstate 93. Founded in 1958 in Waltham, Mass., Acme has acquired numerous competitors over the years, and in 2012 merged with The HF Group out of Ohio.

Here's the building at 100 School Street in Waltham that served as Acme's first home:

(100 School Street, Waltham, Mass., first home to Acme Bookbinding.)

After just one year in business, things were going so well, according to this history of Acme, that the company moved into a 7,000-square foot space on the fourth floor of 300 Summer Street in Boston (see building below).

(300 Summer Street, Boston, second home to Acme Bookbinding. A future post here on the blog will cover this building and many others in what was once the center of Boston's Wool Trade.)

With its acquisition in 1983 of Northeast Library Binding, Acme connected with a company founded in 1821 as J.G. Robert in downtown Boston, at 6 Water Street.

(6 Water Street, Boston, one-time home of J.G. Robert, which was acquired by Acme Bookbinding in 1983.)

With that deal, Acme claims to be the oldest continuously operating bookbinding company in the world. Here's an interview with Paul Parisi, president of Acme Bookbinding, from a March 2017 Boston Globe article. I like this article because I can sense the love of the craft that Parisi brings to his business.

Not gonna lie to you: when I took that picture that's at the top of this post, I never figured I'd be providing my wonderful readers with that much information about this company.

Here's the backside of the Harcourt Bindery, part of Acme's business, located next to Acme's building.

And here's a photo of the front of the Harcourt building.

I took the shot because I found the words "REPAIR" and "BIBLE" next to each other kinda funny, in my usual sacrilegious way. Then I thought perhaps they were referring to a book, you know, a "Repair bible" for some line of products. I really have no idea. Any help is appreciated.

OK, moving along.

Located directly behind the Acme/Harcourt complex is the former Crosby Steam & Gage building (go here for old pictures/drawings of the building). Maker of steam whistles, clocks, gages of all sorts and much more, Crosby merged with Ashton Valve Co. in 1948. Now home to Raybern Decorative Hardware and wedding photographers Hitched Studios, the building dates to 1904, I believe.

Acme isn't the only company in this area that deals with dead trees.

Built in 1920, this manufacturing facility appears to have closed up shop. Boston Paper Board's web site has been, well, papered over. I've been unable to find out anything about when the company started or when it went out of business. I'd love to get on this property.

Right across the street from Boston Paper Board is the backside of the Puritan Garage.

Built in 1920, the garage is currently home to Uno Auto Center, which does repairs and sells used cars. Here's the front.

Based on a bit of online research, I've learned that the garage is also a practice / recording space for local bands, including Jessica Rabbit Syndrome, Quilt and, per my buddy Jay Breitling's blog, Hallelujah the Hills.

A little further down Washington Street, over the line in Somerville, sits this colorful little place.

United Divers calls itself Boston's oldest dive shop. It specializes in classes and equipment.

Heading back to the train after our short walk -- as usual this past fall, the weather was cold, cloudy and a bit rainy -- I spied this beautiful piece of graffiti, back in Charlestown.

Parked on freight tracks adjacent to the MBTA's Orange line, these cars have probably been there quite some time.

Heading back into the train station, I couldn't resist shooting the Encore Boston Harbor casino, in neighboring Everett.

Slated to open in June, the casino is being built by Wynn Resorts, and will be the first full-blown casino in eastern Massachusetts. I recently visited the area around the casino; stay tuned for a long write-up and tons of photos.

Last, but certainly not least, is another great work of graffiti.

It's the Power Puff Girls!

Chrome & Neon

From James M. Surprenant:

I love the stuff that James M. Surprenant shares with us. Here's a small sample of his more recent shots from around America -- D.B.

(Paso Robles, California)

(Hasbrouck Heights, New Jersey)

(Outside Troy, New York)

(Waterbury, Connecticut)

Schedule Conflict

From Dave Brigham:

I took my son, Owen, for his first ride on a commuter train recently. As we waited at the station, I noticed this. Seems there used to be a handwritten schedule tacked here, and the writing pressed through to the board above the bench I was sitting on. Or maybe somebody just wrote it right on the board.

Round trip cost: $14.00 (if I'd known enough to buy a round-trip ticket when I first got on, it would've been cheaper). You'd think for that amount of money, I'd get a full schedule, laminated and handed to me on a silver platter.

I kid the Massachusetts public transportation system, but I love it.

Long Gone Train

From Heidi Waugaman-Page:

Every time I visited my friend in Sunapee, NH, we used to stop at the train. It was right on the main road. So cool...and now gone. There will probably be a Rite Aid or Walgreens, since that is what seems to be the only new construction around here.

The garage was for large trucks and had so many cool windows, chains, old posters, etc. It was super creepy.

Goodwill and Good Luck on the Wrong Side of the Tracks

From Joe Viger:



Duluth is a cool town. It sits on the shore of Lake Superior, the largest lake in the world. Gitche Gumee. This photo of Duluth screamed Backside to me. I’m not exactly sure why. So, even though I made the image several weeks ago, I still hadn’t posted anything to the blog.

I’m still not clear on why it’s an image from the Backside. I have my theories.

Maybe it’s a Backside image because train yards are rare today. We like days gone by. Maybe it’s because even before I hit town I had "The Wreck of The Edmund Fitzgerald" buzzing in my head. A melancholy song about Lake Superior that evokes images we like here on the Backside… wrecked tools of industry and the stories of people who are part of real working America.

Maybe it’s because bustling downtown Duluth -- the beautiful Canal Park, convention center and the arena where the National Champion University of Minnesota Duluth hockey team faces off -- is barely a quarter mile from where I made this image. The train yard seemed a world apart from the Duluth most visitors experience. The side of a place most folks don’t see is classic Backside subject matter.

Quite likely the two messages in the image are meaningful… Goodwill and "Is this your lucky day?" Many photographs and stories that have appeared here on the Backside speak to hopes, dreams and luck… good and bad.

What do you think? Give me your sense of this picture as the Backside of America.

Life On the Tracks

From Dave Brigham:

For the past four years, I've ridden the Cape Cod Central Railroad with my son, Owen, in July during our family vacation. Owen is a subway kid at heart, but he still enjoys riding the passenger cars on the two-hour round trip from Hyannis to Sandwich.

During the narrated trip, passengers learn about how train service used to split off at the Yarmouth Wye (former location of the Yarmouth station) and head east to Provincetown; about how Sandwich is the oldest town on the Cape and home to a glass museum and an extensive boardwalk that was rebuilt after Hurricane Bob in 1991; and all sorts of things about the Cape Cod Canal, such as the fact that it's the widest man-made canal in the world.

The ride is relaxing, even in the non-air conditioned car we rode in this year. You can bring your lunch and buy beer and wine. It's a bit pricey, but worth it.

I don't pay much attention to the narration any more. I prefer to snap pictures out the windows. Many of my shots were blurry or didn't quite capture the scene I was trying to get. But sometimes, as you'll see below, I get a little lucky.




(Trains used for parts)



(Barn)




(I didn't see the car when I stuck the camera out the window, so I was pleasantly surprised to see it when I downloaded pics to my laptop)



(Cranberry bog)



(Crossing Signal)



(Power lines along the canal)