Learning Things About My Hometown

From King Nutmeg:

I spent the first 22 years of my life in Simsbury, Connecticut, but I never got to know the town as well as I would've liked. Over the past dozen years or so, I've learned more about the town - see the bottom of this post for links to previous posts about Simsbury. In town recently for the annual golf tournament that I play in, I wandered through downtown. Frankly, I can't believe I haven't done this walk before with camera in hand. While I was familiar with most of what I saw, there were still a few surprises.

The biggest eye-opener was the first place I saw, the little building below, which is located on Phelps Lane, behind the Simsbury Historical Society compound. I'll discuss that area shortly.

Located a short distance from a restaurant that I've eaten at many times over the years, the former Probate Court was built in 1876. This Gothic Revival structure is home to the Simsbury Land Trust, and may just be the most adorable building in town. How have I never noticed this building?!

Along Station Street, which runs parallel to and south of Phelps Lane, I spotted two of the most well-known businesses in town.

Welden Hardware opened in 1889 - and I've never stepped foot into the store. I'm not even sure how long the business has been in this building. I believe it was formerly located next door (or perhaps part of the store still is), where another Simsbury stalwart is located.

Vincent Sport Shop (aka Vincent's) recently relocated from around the corner on Hopmeadow Street, the main drag through town. According to this Living Places article about the Simsbury Center Historic District, the brick building dates to 1900. The article refers to it as the Welden Hardware building. I don't know how long Vincent's has been in business, but it's certainly many decades. I have actually shopped here, I'm happy to say. The Vincent family is well-established in Simsbury, operating a funeral home nearby since 1902.

From here I walked down to Railroad Street, heading south. I crossed Wilcox Street, walked through a small parking lot and was soon standing in front of a fantastic former train station.

"The Central of New England Railroad Station, 736 Hopmeadow Street, ca.1880, is a one-story frame rectangular building, with bracketed roof overhang," per the Living Places article. The Central of New England Railroad eventually became the New Haven Railroad, I believe, and then the Penn Central. Railroads histories are difficult, as there were so many mergers in the 19th century. There was a line called the Hartford and New Haven Railroad, which ran between New Haven and Springfield, Massachusetts, and this might be the one in question here.

Currently at this location is Powdermen Spirits, a micro-distillery crafting whiskies, bourbon and vodka, per its Facebook page.

The old station faces the rear of a really cool complex with red-brick and red sandstone buildings. Tenants include retailers, small offices and a restaurant.

The Red Stone Pub is located in a former brick home that dates to 1904, per the restaurant's web site. I haven't eaten here, but I've heard the food and brews are really good.

A stable and carriage house were built the same year, using red sandstone from the nearby Ketchin Quarry. The owner was Ralph Hart Ensign, managing partner of Ensign Bickford & Company, a manufacturer at that time of safety fuses and detonating cord. E-B, as the company was known locally, was founded in 1836 in Simsbury. Its business grew to include missile and launch vehicle technology that was developed for Sandia National Laboratories; and space ordnance used by NASA.

As a kid, I regularly heard controlled explosions coming from E-B's test sites in the woods of town. In August 1984, however, I was at home when an explosion rocked my house so hard, I thought a truck had driven into the house. A major conflagration in the Powder Forest had taken the lives of three E-B workers, I learned soon enough on the national news.

Anyway, the sandstone former stables connect to the pub in a U-shaped design, and are just simply stunning.

I'm confused by the sign on the Hilhorst & Zoon store, which says "SINDS 1477" on it. The small company offers software for investment accounting, per its listing on the Granby-Simsbury Chamber of Commerce web site. "Sinds" is a Dutch word that translates to "ever since." This is what I guessed. I'm pretty sure software didn't exist in 1477, so perhaps this sign is an inside joke.

All of these buildings are located on Jim Gallagher Way, a short road connecting Hopmeadow Street to Iron Horse Boulevard, and situated next to the Simsbury Town Visitor Center. I know Jim Gallagher, as he is the father of one of the friends I play golf with once a year. He's a great guy - really funny, smart and with an unmatched sense of Simsbury's history. I first met him when I was in my early 20s, working as a reporter for the local weekly paper (R.I.P., Farmington Valley Herald). One of my "beats" was the zoning commission, of which Jim was the chairman.

Near the corner of Wilcox Street and Iron Horse Boulevard is a curious community bulletin board.

It looks a bit like a salt or pepper shaker. It's also reminiscent of the nearby Heublein Tower, which sits atop Talcott Mountain.

Heading north along Iron Horse Boulevard -- a bypass road that didn't exist when I was growing up, named for the steam locomotives that once ran by here -- I found the quaint ticket depot for the Simsbury Meadows Performing Arts Center, another thing that didn't exist during my tenure in Simsbury. This was all farmland when I was a kid.

While this building looks historic, I believe it is a relatively new addition to the performing arts complex.

I worked my way back up to Hopmeadow Street and strolled past the historical society's compound. As a general rule, I don't make photos of museums, but I made an exception for my hometown. Below is the Phelps Tavern, which fronts on Hopmeadow Street.

"The Phelps house and tavern was owned by five generations of the Phelps family for nearly two hundred years," according to the historical society's web site. "The building served as family home, canal hotel, lodge meeting site, entertainment hall, and local tavern. From 1786 until 1849, three generations of fathers and sons, and one widow, served as tavern-keepers.

"Built for Elisha Phelps in 1771...[t]he building was a family residence until Noah Phelps, Elisha Phelps’ brother, acquired the first tavern license in 1786. His son Noah A. Phelps ran the tavern from around 1805 until his death in 1817. His widow Charlotte operated the tavern herself until her son, Jeffery Phelps, purchased the property in 1820.

"Jeffery Phelps ran the tavern for 29 years, closing the business in 1849 to devote himself to agriculture and other interests. The building was remodeled in 1879 and 1915 by resident family members, and remained a family home until it was given to the Simsbury Historical Society in 1962 as a gift by Mary Phelps Ensign Lovejoy. The last family occupants were the family of Mr. and Mrs. Jeffrey O. Phelps, 4th."

I recall stepping onto the historical society grounds just a few times as a kid. Once was during Simsbury's 300th anniversary celebration in 1970, when I was five years old. The other was for a haunted house perhaps a few years later.

The other building I photographed on the campus is a circa-1790 schoolhouse, below.

"This school was originally located on Tariffville Road in what is now Bloomfield, near the present Old Saint Andrew’s Episcopal Church," the society indicates on its web site. "At the time, this was an area of Simsbury known as Scotland; the school served Scotland North District pupils in Simsbury until 1843 when the area was annexed to the Town of Bloomfield."

OK, that's some new history for me.

"The building was modified in 1826 and served as a school house until 1933 when it was converted into a single family home. It was acquired by the Simsbury Historical Society and moved to its present location in 1970."

Back along Wilcox Street, I spied a solid stone wall that I guessed was once the property line of a large home. Currently on the site is a Bank of America branch. When I was a kid, that building was what I thought of as the "fancy bank," as it was a newer, much more modern building than the Colonial house across Hopmeadow Street where I had a savings account starting when I was pretty young.

My guess turned out to be correct, as I found out when I asked folks on a Simsbury-related Facebook group. "The property where the bank sits was the Henry Edwards Ellsworth home," one group member informed me. "I think that’s the spot where John E. Ellsworth lived in a green colored wooden structure of a beautiful home," another said, referencing Henry's son.

A third member provided some great history: "Was razed in late 60's, early 70's! There was a bowling alley in the basement and some of the wooden balls and pins reside in the Bowling Hall of Fame courtesy of Red Burnham! House was 3 story's (sic) if I remember right!"

Yet another member had fond memories of the home, where her grandmother worked. "We used to visit her there and played in the yard - the gate was there and let us get over to Pattiston’s general store. The house was really beautiful inside - Mrs Ellsworth had an elevator chair on the front stairway that we were allowed to ride on."

The Ellsworth family was obviously a well-to-do clan, with involvement in Ensign-Bickford and other local businesses.

My time running short, I headed back toward my car, and walked around the former train station and caboose that make up Plan b restaurant.

"The New Haven and Northampton Railroad Depot, 1875...was built by the successor to the New Haven and Northampton [Canal] Company, in conjunction with the Connecticut Western Railroad," per the Living Places web site cited above. "It is a rectangular brick Italianate structure with wide overhang of its gabled roof."

I'm not sure the stories behind the caboose and old engine behind the restaurant.

Next door to Plan b is a relatively new shop, A Spoonful of Britain, which sells British groceries and home decor.

I'm guessing this building was built by a railroad as well. Outside the shop, I found myself looking for Dr. Who.

Yes, I know the Tardis was located in a blue police box, not a standard red phone booth. Or at least I did once I searched online while writing this.

This all makes me think of Wee Britain:

As I was ready to head off to meet my friends for breakfast, I had to make a photo of the old mail Jeep below.

I'm pretty sure that the mailman who delivered to our house used to drive a rig like this. Brought back fond memories of my childhood in the Weatogue section of Simsbury.

For more about Simsbury, see these posts:

(see February 4, 2016, "Stealing Back Into the Past of My Hometown").

(see February 7, 2013, "President Little, Part II: From Myth to Man").

(see December 29, 2012, "Exploring Back Home").

(see September 20, 2011, "In Search of President Little").

Putting Framingham in the Frame

From Dave Brigham:

I visited Framingham, Mass., a few times several years ago with my son as we checked out commuter trains coming in and out of the area (see May 19, 2014, "Another Link in the Chain"). Recently, on a somewhat limited time budget, I explored as much as I could of the downtown of what until recently was the largest town in the Commonwealth.

Framingham for years billed itself as the largest town in Massachusetts. Some locals even referred to it as the largest town in the country. With more than 72,000 residents as of four years ago, and an area of 26.4 square miles, Framingham was indeed a substantial burg, one whose industrial history dates back before the Civil War. But on January 1, 2018, after residents voted, Framingham switched from a town-meeting system to a mayor-council government, and officially became a city.

The city is bisected by both Route 9 and the Massachusetts Turnpike. The downtown area is located in the southern section, where Route 135 is the main thoroughfare. Commuter and Amtrak trains run through the busy area of the city as well. As you can probably guess, I'm interested in this area of the city because of its late-19th century architecture, which includes the former Dennison Manufacturing plant, which I will discuss more below.

After parking in front of the Framingham commuter tain station on Waverly Street, I started walking west and was immediately attracted to the Cardella Building.

Built around the turn of the 20th century, this building is currently home to Papalote Estilo Barber Shop and Gold Refinery, which buys gold and diamonds, and repairs watches and jewelry. I've been unable to find out why this place is named Cardella.

Heading west, I curved onto Fountain Street and found one of my favorite things, a social club.

The Columbus Club building dates to around 1930, but I believe the organization goes back to 1908.

It was at this point that I made a fateful decision to keep heading west-northwest along Fountain Street, as I'd caught a glimpse of a big industrial complex that I wanted to check out. Dating to 1906, these buildings turned out to be the former R.H. Long Shoe Company. Now known as Bancroft Lofts, this complex was once home to various companies manufacturing shoes, leather goods and auto bodies. Everything was too tidy for me, so I kept my camera down and kept walking.

Arriving at the intersection of Fountain Street and Dudley Road, I had a choice to make: go up Dudley and see how long it took to get around Farm Pond; continue along Fountain Street, which didn't look very promising; or turn back and cover ground that I'd already trod upon. Because it was super-hot and humid, I opted for the latter. It was only after the fact that I realized the magnificent Lloyd's Diner was just a little further up Fountain Street. So I made a special trip back a few weeks later to shoot some photos.

Built as #783 by the Worcester Lunch Car Company in 1942, the diner was originally located in Orange, Mass., per Wikipedia. "[I]t was operated by Robert and Richard Whitney until about 1960 as Whit's, and then under other ownership as the Orange Diner. It was purchased by Richard and Joan Lloyd in 1990 and moved to Framingham." Looking good after nearly 80 years!

On my first trip, I headed back toward the action, and checked out Hollis Street. There, I spied the Central-Eames Building, which dates to 1884.

This place is now home to Assembleia de Deus Shalom (Assembly of God Shalom), a Portuguese church.

I'm guessing the Central-Eames Building was erected as a commercial/office space.

Next door is the former lodge of the local Independent Order of Odd Fellows (IOOF).

Erected in 1876, the building was home for the local chapter of a fraternal organization begun in this country in New York in 1806. After the Civil War, "Odd Fellows became the largest among all fraternal organizations, (at the time, even larger than Freemasonry)," per the IOOF's web site. "By 1889, the IOOF had lodges in every American state. In 1896, the World Almanac showed the Odd Fellows as the largest among all fraternal organizations." The Odd Fellows began in 1730 in London, per Wikipedia.

The building is now home to a MetroPCS store, a jewelry store and a liquor and food mart.

A little further up Hollis is a former fire station that's now home to the Amazing Things Art Center (which goes by atac). The group hosts open-mic nights, plays, concerts and other events.

The building, known historically as the Hollis Street Fire House and Fire Alarm Building, dates to 1902. The outbuilding behind it was where the alarm system was located, according to MACRIS. It's been beautifully decorated, as you can see below.

I doubled back on Hollis, and shot The Beaumont, a beautiful commercial/office building that was erected in 1898.

This place is home to a hair salon, a Cricket wireless store and a Pit Bull/Pantaneira clothing store. I spied a cool-looking building on Irving Street, so I made a beeline for it.

Built in 1890, the Tribune Building is the former home of the Framingham Tribune, which operated from 1883-1912. This wonderful old building is now home to the Tribune Apartments, which is managed by POAH Communities, an organization that provides affordable housing opportunities in several states and Washington, D.C.

Half a block away from the Tribune Building is the Connery Building, which unfortunately seems to have nothing to do with the former James Bond actor.

Built in 1878, this place is known historically as the Bullard House - Connery Building. Connery's was a bar, but I'm not sure how long it was here. In more recent years, this space was home to The Tavern and, until 2019, Danny Sullivan's. Now there is nothing.

Directly across Irving Street from the Connery Building is the former West Boston Gas Company Building.

Dating to 1927, the Classical Revival building replaced a private home. The building appears to be vacant.

I ducked down Columbia Street, where I saw this nice old auto body shop that specializes in Volkswagens.

Around the corner, along South Street, I spied the imposing former Edison Electric Company substation.

Built in 1912 and designed by John Prindiville (whose name will come up again below), the old power station appears to have been vacant for quite some time. I'm not sure whether there has been interest in redeveloping this site. Maybe it could be turned into storage? In South Boston, another former Edison power station is slated to be redeveloped into a mix of retail, housing, commercial and art space, a hotel and more. I shot photos of the complex, as well as the surrounding neighborhood, a few years back (see January 12, 2019, "Power Move in South Boston").

I crossed back over the busy Waverly Street and checked out the caboose at the MetroWest Regional Transit Authority.

The MWRTA facility serves both the MBTA commuter rail and an assortment of bus lines, I believe. The caboose dates to the 1930s, and was installed five years ago.

Steps away is a fantastic mural that brought to mind the finest work of Pablo Picasso.

Created by artist Sorin Bica, the mural is part the Front Door Framingham Project. Bica, a local resident, says he draws inspiration from the cultural and ethnic diversity in Framingham.

A short distance away, on Park Street, is the beautiful Framingham Savings Bank.

Built in 1928, this Spanish Renaissance Revival building is known historically as the Farmers and Mechanics Savings Bank. The FMSB was incorporated in 1883; the name was changed to Framingham Savings Bank in 1961, per MACRIS. The building is currently vacant.

Around the corner, on Concord Street, is a building I'd shot during a prior visit, the former Hotel Kendall.

Built in 1898, this gorgeous building is now home to a salon, a flower shop, a realtor's office and apartments.

Across Kendall Street is the Amsden Building, which dates to 1906.

This lovely little place has a tragic past, per MACRIS. "On July 23, 1906, the original Amsden building, while under construction, collapsed killing 13 workmen. It was being built by George M. Amsden, and due to this tragedy he lost the property to the Hopkinton Savings Bank. The property was sold to the Fitts brothers in 1908 and they erected the present building."

Yikes.

Home to a variety of stores, small businesses and apartments, the Amsden once held a bowling alley.

Around the corner, on Union Avenue, across from city hall, is the Wilsonia Building.

Built in 1914 and designed by John Prindiville (that name again), the Wilsonia has apartments on the upper floors, and an insurance agency, an optical shop and a shoe store on the ground floor.

Doubling back on Union Street, I shot the Hemenway Building.

Built in 1923, the Hemenway Building also had a bowling alley inside at some point, per MACRIS.

Back on Concord Street is the Framingham Arcade.

Erected in 1928, the Arcade has what MACRIS calls a "spatially exciting central arcade."

North of the arcade on Concord Street is the Prindiville Building.

Built in 1912, it was designed by (you know, don't you?) John Prindiville. In the late 19th century, Prindiville relocated his construction company from Athol, Mass., to Framingham, according to the Framingham History Center. Prindiville quickly became a stalwart in the town. "Because of its reputation for fine and creative work, the J. J. Prindiville Company played a major part in the downtown’s transformation. The Memorial Building, the Kendall Hotel, the stone building for Grace Congregational Church, St. Bridget Church, the brick Framingham Union Hospital, Framingham High School on Union Avenue, the armory for Company E on Union Avenue, The Arcade and the Hemenway, Wilsonia, Crouch, Mullaney, Prindiville, Fitts buildings are just a few of the innovative building completed by J. J. Prindiville Company."

Damn, that man was busy!

On Howard Street I spied a ghost sign for the former Salvation Army Thrift Store.

The store shut down in 2011; I'm not sure what, if anything, is in this property now. The adjacent building is home to the Hope Apostolic Church.

The next place along Howard Street I found interesting because of the mix of uses for the building.

L/R Construction has been in business since 1995, focusing on corporate, institutional, and non-profit organizations, per its web site. Howard Street Studios is home to eight artists, each specializing in a variety of mediums. And finally, Igreja Christa Evangelica (Casa de Oracao) is one of several churches I spied in Framingham in non-tradtional buildings.

Moseying along, I spied the cool Model A below at Mass Auto Exchange.

This brought me to the former Dennison Manufacturing Company complex.

Built in 1919, this four-story section of the industrial compound was erected by the Dennison company, which manufactured boxes, tags and labels. Other sections of the building were built between 1882 and 1903 by Dennison and the Para Rubber-Shoe Company, per MACRIS. The latter company went out of business in the 1890s, and eventually Dennison took over. "[F]or a short while this building was the home of the Hickory Wheel Company which manufactured bicycles. Col. Albert A. Pope was the principal owner. Mr. Pope was known as the father of the bicycle industry in America, and his plant at Hartford, Conn, was the largest bicycle works in the world," according to MACRIS. "In 1897 the property was purchased by the Dennison Manufacturing Company and this building was used for manufacturing tags and other paper products" (for more on Albert Pope, see June 5, 2020, "Cruising Around a Waterless Bay Village").

(I'm so happy the old sign was preserved.)

Among the businesses located in buildings on the former Dennison campus are craft-beer brewer Jack's Abbey.

Across Bishop Street from the old manufacturing facility is the former Dennison Power Plant complex.

Erected in 1910, the plant was obviously a vital element for the continued expansion of the Dennison operations. Dennison closed up most of its operations in Framingham in 1990, when the company merged with Avery Corp. to form Avery Dennison, and moved to California.

At least part of this complex is occupied by South Middlesex Opportunity Council (SMOC), which, according to its web site, works to "improve the quality of life of low-income and disadvantaged individuals and families by advocating for their needs and rights; providing services; educating the community; building a community of support; participating in coalitions with other advocates and searching for new resources and partnerships."

There are some amazing works of art on and around the buildings.

The sunflower mural was painted in July 2020 by Melanie MacEacheron, a SMOC employee. I'm not sure who made the Easter Island head, or the sphinx below.

There's at least one other great mural here.

I'm not sure who painted this. An artist named Alexander Golob painted a mural on the back of these buildings, which I didn't venture to see. The style on the mural above (and below) doesn't seem to be the same as Golob's.

(Detail of SMOC building mural.)

I doubled back along Howard Street to Concord Street. In front of the Rent-A-Center building hard by the railroad tracks, I spied a nice old tile entryway sign.

The Enterprise Block dates to 1951, per MACRIS.

From there, I got back on Waverly Street heading east-northeast. I needed to shoot the building housing the Mountain of Fire and Miracles Ministries.

Dating to 1989, the church "is a full gospel ministry devoted to the Revival of Apostolic Signs, Holy Ghost fireworks and the unlimited demonstration of the power of God to deliver to the uttermost," per its web site. This building is also home to Railroad 6 Kitchen & Bar, which occupies the former space of The Happy Swallow, a bar opened after the end of Prohibition, per this article.

Just on the other side of South Street is a vacant lot next to a shuttered Mexican restaurant.

El Mariachi closed in July 2020 after four years in business. Previously, the Chicken Bone restaurant occupied this space. Given the vacant lot here, this seems a likely spot for redevelopment.

I reached Marble Street, and headed southwest until I hit Blandin Avenue, where I spied a war memorial.

The MetroWest Regional Transit Authority hosts the Vietnam Veterans Memorial, which was dedicated in November 2016.

And last, but by no means least, a social club on the corner of South and Arlington streets.

The Portuguese Recreation Club dates to 1955.

That's it for downtown Framingham. Make sure to check back for an upcoming post about the Saxonville area of the city.