In the Valley of Belmont, Part III: Cushing Square

From Dave Brigham:

Named for the wealthy sea merchant and opium smuggler whose vast estate gave the town its name, Cushing Square is situated in Belmont's southern climes, bordering Watertown. For the purposes of this blog, I will stretch the boundaries of the retail district a bit to the north and east.

John Perkins Cushing was born in Boston in 1787. "When his mother died of smallpox, Cushing was raised by his uncle, slave and opium trader Thomas Handasyd Perkins," according to Wikipedia. "In 1803, at age 16, Cushing sailed for China to become clerk in his uncle's counting house," Wikipedia continues. "The head of the firm in China soon fell ill and died at sea. Thus, when Cushing arrived in China, he found himself Perkins & Company's sole agent, remaining there for nearly 30 years."

The firm imported and traded rice in China, and also engaged in money lending, Wikipedia continues. Perkins & Co. was also involved in fur trading, but when that business began to flag, the operation settled on the opium trade. In 1830, Cushing returned to Boston, where he married, raised a family and established Bellmont, a 200-acre estate.

He died in Belmont in 1862, three years after the town was established. His estate was located in the area where Payson Park is located.

OK, now that we've gotten the seedier business out of the way, let's learn more about the Greater Cushing Square area. This is the last of three posts about the commercial areas of Belmont (see December 6, 2025, "In the Valley of Belmont, Part II: Waverley Square," and November 22, 2025, "In the Valley of Belmont, Part I: The Center"). Links to other posts about the town are located at the bottom of this post.

This tour starts at the Payson Park Reservoir, which is located in the neighborhood just north and east of Cushing Square. "After Cushing’s death...Bellmont was sold to Samuel Payson, a textile manufacturer," according to this Town of Belmont document. In 1886 Payson sold the property to the Payson Park Land Company, which developed the residential streets.

I have a thing for gatehouses (see February 18, 2023, "The Loveliest Gatehouse,"; April 10, 2021, "I Seek Newton, Part X: Newton Centre (Section 3)," and scroll down for two examples; December 5, 2016, "I Seek Newton, Part VI: Chestnut Hill" and scroll most of the way down), so when I saw on Google Maps that there are a few at the large cistern owned by the City of Cambridge (WHAT?!), I had to check them out.

Bounded by Common Street to the west, Belmont Street to the south, Washington Street to the north and School Street to the east, the Payson Park neighborhood "underwent several stages of residential development between 1886 and 1930," according to MACRIS. It's a very pleasant area; its "historical significance rests in its current existence as an essentially intact example of early 20th century suburban development," MACRIS continues. "It reflects the impact on a large 19th century country estate of streetcar and automobile generated (sic) urban accessibility."

The reservoir was built between 1894 and 1898, after the City of Cambridge took the site by eminent domain, MACRIS indicates. "[I]t stands on the site of suspected Contact Period Indian activity," MACRIS explains. "In the 20th century the reservoir [was] the subject of several construction, water rights, and security controversies."

Cambridge still owns the 163-acre parcel. The reservoir holds 43 million gallons of drinkable water, and is located less than a mile from Cambridge's Fresh Pond Reservoir, as the crow flies. The two have a symbiotic relationship.

"Every day, between 12 and 16 million gallons of water is withdrawn from Fresh Pond, run through the plant and then pumped a half-mile uphill to an elevation of 176 feet at Payson Park, from which it flows by gravity to a central distribution point at the [Cambridge] Common, providing the water pressure needed for it to wind up ultimately in homes, schools and offices," according to this undated article from the Cambridge Water Department.

This isn't the only water reserve that Cambridge maintains outside its city boundary. The Cambridge Reservoir, also known as the Hobbs Brook Reservoir, is located just west of Route 128, straddling the towns of Lexington and Lincoln, and the city of Waltham. Cambridge also gets water from the Stony Brook Reservoir in Weston.

Anyway! Let's talk about those beautiful Romanesque gatehouses, which date to 1896.

Located at the top of a steep set of steps along Payson Road, these circular structures are really quite something. The details are magnificent, the design beautiful and the restoration applause-worthy. As you can imagine, they had fallen into disrepair over the generations, with MACRIS indicating in a 1982 report that they were "threatened by neglect," and that the main house had lost its pointed roof in 1967 and a "significant portion of its outer yellow brick wall facing."

Nowadays, when a utilitarian building of this sort is designed and built, it tends to be quite plain and boring. I understand that putting significant finances behind a structure that mainly exists to cover up infrastrcture isn't something that many public or private entities think makes sense. But I appreciate the efforts from the turn of last century.

Interested to learn more about the gatehouses, while also reading about someone's lunch of snow peapod noodles and her neighbor's concern about Dutch Elm disease? Then check out this blog post.

Below are two more images of the reservoir.

The Payson Park Land Company developed Bellmont and 15 acres of land for the Belmont School for Boys, a boarding school, according to Town of Belmont document. I'm unclear whether that school is the same as Belmont Hill School, which was founded in 1923. The school constructed a chapel in 1892. In 1930, the chapel was given to the town. It has served as the Benton Branch Library since then.

The quaint English Revival building "is of unique architectural style in the Benton neighborhood, particularly notable as being the only pre-1900 building in this portion of Belmont that has not been moved or inappropriately altered," MACRIS indicates.

OK, now that I've spent WAY more time on Payson Park than I'd originally intended, let's get to Cushing Square.

Perhaps the most notable building in the square is the Winters Block, a stately English Revival building located just to the southeast of the intersection of Common Street and Trapelo Road.

"Cushing Square developed in the early 20th century as a commercial center for the adjacent Payson Park residential neighborhood," according to this Town of Belmont document. "Both Trapelo Road and Common Street were important historically – Trapelo Road (originally North Street) was the road to Waverley and Common Street was the principal way from Watertown to Belmont Center. However it was the arrival of the West End Street Railway in 1891, offering streetcar service from Waverley to Boston via Cambridge, that made the area what it is today. At that time each road was widened to 75 feet to accommodate center tracks."

"In 1925 P.R. Winters opened Winters Hardware on the ground floor of a building he had built at 80-86 Trapelo Road," the document continues. "Four years later, a large addition was constructed to the east of the original building at 72-78 Trapelo Road. Like many residences being built in Belmont during the period, the Winters Block was designed in a Tudor Revival style with an exterior decorated by stucco, half-timbering and steeply-pitched gables projecting from the slate roof."

I love a nice clock. I also dig the fact that the original business is still here!

On the north side of Trapelo Road, a little to the east, is the Attacca School of Music, which is located in a former bank.

Named for a musical instruction used to indicate that the next section should follow without a pause (thanks Dictionary.com!), the school offers private programs in piano, violin, viola, guitar and cello.

As for the building, it was constructed as a branch office for the Harvard Trust Company in 1935. In ensuing years, Harvard Trust was swalloed up by Bay Bank, and this building served as a bank until 1993. It was then occupied by an insurance company, and perhaps other outfits, before the music school took over.

I continued east, to the intersection of Trapelo Road and Belmont Street. I wanted to take a look at the building where one of the last Brigham's Ice Cream shops in the world once stood. That location shut down in January 2012 after nearly 80 years in business. From there, I crossed the street and headed back toward the heart of Cushing Square, but as you'll see a bit further down this post, I ventured east by car later in my adventure.

Catercorner (one of my favorite words) from Winters Hardware is the Thomas A. Dewire building, which houses several small retail operations. I like the contrast of the building's name carved along the roofline with the much less permanent sign for #1 Food Mart.

Around the corner on Cushing Avenue is House of Lavash, which specializes in traditional Armenian flatbread.

I really like that sign.

There are numerous one-story retail buildings in the square. Along Common Street is a Colonial Revival strip that dates to 1931.

At 105-115 Trapelo Road is the Zebedee Cliff Block, which was built in the mid-1920s. It is one of many of what MACRIS calls "taxpayer blocks, which "provide shops and services for the area’s rapidly growing population."

Next, I stopped in to see my buddy who runs Want List Records out of the building at 113 Trapelo Road. It's a great shop!

At this point I got in my car and headed a mile east along Belmont Street to check out Belmont's southeast corner.

I've long been intrigued by buildings like this, which are tacked onto the front of houses and function as a small business. This one seems a bit more of a stand-alone than most, but it's still tucked right into the building on the left. Until 2013, this space was a hair salon. I believe it is now the location of Kataram Studios, a family-run photo and video service.

Steps away heading east is Lord's Dry Cleaners, which has a bright and awesome sign.

I followed Belmont Street until I hit the Cambridge line, and then turned back. I couldn't resist making a photo of the sign on the side of the Tennis & Squash Shop building.

This family business has been selling, repairing and restringing racquets for more than a century!

Just a bit west is Eastern Lamejun Bakers.

Established in 1942 by the Koundakjian family, and acquired by the Dervartanian family in 1984, the bakery calls itself "the premier Middle Eastern and Armenian bakery in the Greater Boston area." Belmont and Watertown have long had significant Armenian populations.

I don't believe Empire Alarm is still in business, but the company's sign is still working hard.

Just off the intersection with Belmont Street stands 11 Grove Street, home to the town's Knight of Columbus council, and Catholic Charitable Trust.

I assume this building has been altered greatly from a former residence. It is located in a triangular development that is hemmed in by Grove and Belmont streets, as well as Marion Road. "Marion Rd. is typical of the development in the Harvard Lawn section of Belmont," according to MACRIS, using a term for the neighborhood I hadn't heard before. I'm not sure of the origin, but I assume it relates to Harvard University somehow.

I wrapped up my tour of greater Cushing Square at a place that friends tell me is fantastic: Linda's Donuts.

This place has been around since the 1960s, I believe. When I posted a different photo on Facebook, one friend said, "That place is a classic," while another indicated that "These donuts are the best."

For an inside look into the business, check out this video.

Below are links to other posts about Belmont:

November 21, 2017, "Punk Farm?"

July 2, 2013, "Ped Xing"

May 28, 2013, "Small, But Useful"

November 25, 2012, "Crouching Barn, Hidden Mill"

In the Valley of Belmont, Part II: Waverley Square

From Dave Brigham:

Belmont's Waverley Square is named for the Waverley Oaks, a well-known -- and long-gone -- famous stand of trees in what is now Beaver Brook Reservation, on the border with Waltham. The grove of trees -- somewhere between one and two dozen -- were "very large and ancient," according to the web site for The Waverley Trail.

The Oaks "inspired the creation of the world’s first regional land trust," according to the Trail's site. Said land trust, The Trustees of Reservations, was formed in 1891 by the Massachusetts Legislature "for the purposes of acquiring, holding, maintaining and opening to the public...beautiful and historic places...within the Commonwealth," per the Trustees' web site.

By the late 19th century, these trees were already older than the nation, according to various online accounts, with estimates of their ages ranging from 100 to 1,000 years old. Unfortunately, none of those mighty oaks are still standing, although the Waverley Trail site tells us that descendants of those mighty trees stand today.

But I'm not here to bum you out about dead timber - I'm here to celebrate yet another Belmont commercial destination (for my first Belmont post, see November 22, 2025, "In the Valley of Belmont, Part I: The Center").

Located in the south-centralish area of the town, Waverley Square is roughly bounded by Trapelo Road, Lexington Street, Pleasant Street and, oh let's say Bartlett Avenue. Amid the residential streets flanking Trapelo Road there are stores, restaurants, churches, historic signs and other points of interest.

I made a few visits to this area. From Beaver Brook Reservation, an area I wrote about once before (see November 25, 2012, "Crouching Barn, Hidden Mill"), head east along Trapelo Road to get to the square. Right where Trapelo meets Pleasant Street stands a small brick building that marks the southern tip of the expansive and well-known McLean Hospital facility and grounds.

Known as the Pleasant Street Lodge, the building once served as an entry gate to the grounds, I believe. These days, it serves as a meeting space for members of the residential community on the grounds. I haven't been able to track down information about its age, prior usage or architect.

At the corner of Church and Lexington streets is a fantastic architectural two-fer.

Occupied by Best Cleaners, on the left, and a Dunkin' franchise, on the right, these two nicely maintained buildings date to different decades of the 1800s. The Dunkin' building was likely built in the 1880s, per MACRIS. It "has most likely always been used for a commercial business on the ground floor and residential space above, as it is today," MACRIS continues. "It may have functioned as hotel space for immigrant workers who came to Boston in the 1890s to help construct the McLean Hospital complex."

Its similarly styled neighbor dates to the early 1850s and is known historically as Waverley Hall. One of the oldest buildings in this area of Belmont, it was originally located across from its current site, according to MACRIS. "[T]he structure was built to provide a meeting place and general store for the emerging population. The first floor was probably used commercially and the second floor served as a hall. The building may have also been used as the railroad depot for the Waverley stop [of the Fitchburg Railroad]. The hall was used as a location for public meetings and as the home of the First Congregational Church of Waverley, organized in 1861."

A few doors down, heading north on Church Street, is one of two storefronts for Wheelworks, a bike shop that was founded in 1977.

There's nothing particularly amazing architecturally about this place, but in doing some pre-search before heading out for second pass through Waverley Square, I learned that this Art Deco building served as a First National grocery store when it was built in 1931. First National Stores (later known as Finast) formed in 1925 from a merger of three grocery store operators, per Wikipedia. The company was eventually acquired and the stores were rebranded in various ways.

The main entrance to Wheelworks is located at 480 Trapelo Road, in what is known historically as the Leonardi-Maynard Block.

"This block was one of many such single-story 'taxpayer' commercial structures which sprung up along streetcar routes and commercial centers in the Boston area in the early 20th century," MACRIS indicates. "Charles E. Leonardi, a Boston attorney, was issued a building permit for the seven unit building in 1914. In 1915 the tenants included Charles E. Scott, insurance agent at #472; the Waverley Square Provision Co. at #476; Isaac Silver’s dry goods store at #482; Pannanchio & Albany’s fruit store at #486 and the Waverley Square Bowling Alley in the basement."

I wonder if remnants of the bowling alley exist. Over the years, I've learned about numerous buildings in Greater Boston that once had thriving bowling alleys in their basements. Sadly, many of those businesses ended up in the gutter.

On the north side of Trapelo Road, a short walk from the commuter train stop, where Waverley Street meets the main drag, stands a beautiful former municipal building that is now surely a great place to live.

This gorgeous place was built in 1873 as a school. In 1895 it was named the Rev. Daniel Butler Grammar School. "It is the oldest surviving schoolhouse in Belmont," according to MACRIS. "After a new Butler school opened in 1900, the second story of this lovely old pile was occupied by the Waverley Society of Odd Fellows. The first floor was vacant until 1906 when it became temporary quarters for the Fire Department and Electric Light Department.

"The Odd Fellows moved out in 1926 and the second story was remodeled to provide sleeping quarters for the firemen. In 1930 an addition was made and the building was converted to a two-door station, with the current Art Deco entry added. A third and final addition was made in 1933 when a branch library wing was constructed."

This building was converted to condos in 2007.

Walking east on Trapelo Road, I looked south down Maple Street and thought I spied something worth checking out in the middle distance. That turned out to be a backside mirage, but on my trek along Maple, I found something real...if a little odd.

Home to Friendship Lodge #20, the Oddfellows Hall is...uh, I got nothing. MACRIS has no details, neither does the Belmont assessor's database.

Back out on Trapelo is a place that I was hoping was still an active theater. But alas....

Now occupied by Beacon Community Church, the former Strand Theater opened in 1921 from a design by Funk and Wilcox. The firm was "primarily known for designing apartment houses and commercial dwellings," according to this Back Bay Houses article. "They designed the Boston Arena (1910) on St. Botolph [Street] and a number of theaters, including (in 1918) the Strand Theatre at Upham’s Corner" in Boston.

The architects also designed the Cabot Theater in Beverly, Mass., which I mentioned in my write-up about that North Shore town (see September 16, 2023, "Downtown Beverly, Part I: Cabot Street + Environs").

The Belmont theater operated under a few names over the decades, including the Studio. In 1976, the owners installed new seats, reducing the total number to just over 400. The moviehouse was renovated again in 1998. According to Cinema Treasures, the theater "was closed in January 2015, but reopened July 2015. On September 9, 2020 it was sold to a church."

On the side of the adjacent Lisa's Family Pizzeria is a great mural.

Across from the pizza joint is Art's Specialties, part of a small local chain of specialty gourmet shops selling cheese, wine, beer, chocolate, dried meat, teas and much more. I dug the poster in the window, as well as the beer selection.

The image is a famous one. From the Library of Congress: "Marching under banners emblazoned 'We Want Beer,' and to the tune of 36 bands, more than 1500 union men paraded through Broad Street, Newark, N. J., on October 30th. [1931], in spectacular anti-prohibition demonstration. Over 20 labor unions and 800 musicians took part in the huge demonstration which is said to be one of the largest and most impressive of any staged in the country."

Side note about Trapelo Road: for a few years after I moved to Greater Boston in 1990 I thought the road was pronounced "TRAP-e-lo," rhyming with Tupelo, the Mississippi birthplace of Elvis Presley. I called information [look it up, kids] one day in the early '90s while I was at work, trying to find some company's phone number, and was corrected by the operator: "It's pronouned "Tra-PELL-o."

I crossed the street, and on the south side of Trapelo, as I was heading west, I spied L.C.'s Variety, about which I know two things: it has a pleasant sign, and it is located in a building that dates to 1927.

Continuing west, I had to make a photo of the automaton cobbler in the window of Peter's Shoe Repair.

This place looks like it's been in business for quite a few decades. As for the somewhat creepy dude who looks like a ventriloquist's dummy, he's part of a culture that I'm hoping to learn more about. In my travels over the years in service of this blog, I've come across a few such automatons, including one at The Cobbler Shop in Newton Corner; one at Eagle Shoe Repair in Norwood; and let's not forget this variation from David's Instant Shoe Repair in Boston, which is now out of business:

I wrapped up my Waverley Square-ish tour at the Pleasant Street Garage, which is north of the Star Market and the Belmont Car Wash. According to MACRIS, the complex "was constructed as an automobile sales and service facility in multiple stages between 1912 and 1949. The complex includes an automotive showroom at its west end and a long narrow section extending to the northeast formerly used for service and storage."

That western end is now occupied by Artefact, a home and garden store.

"The Pleasant Street Garage was initially operated by Cheney J. Holton and George Williams about 1912," MACRIS continues. "The garage consisted of a small building and offered supplies, accessories and storage with all makes of cars bought, sold and exchanged. Holton sold his share of the business to Williams and in 1928 George Williams sold to Amedio (Joseph) DeMelia.

"Amedio Joseph DeMelia was born in Verona, Italy, and upon arriving in the U.S. settled initially in New York City before arriving in Belmont. Under his ownership, the Pleasant Street Garage was continually expanded over the next fifty years and became one of the largest Dodge dealerships in New England.

"The complex was sold by Joseph DeMelia’s daughters, Claire and Lorraine DeMelia, in 2010 to Paul Tocci."

I really like the look of these buildings, and love that they have been repurposed for a variety of uses, including several related to automobiles, including Boston Motor Werks and Coachworks

I love that the owner of this property left an old sign intact.

I hope you enjoyed this tour of Waverley Square. Make sure to check back for the final installment in this series, in which I will cover Cushing Square. In the meantime, check out the links below for older posts about Belmont.

November 21, 2017, "Punk Farm?"

July 2, 2013, "Ped Xing"

May 28, 2013, "Small, But Useful"