Saturday, November 23, 2024

Jalopies in the Landlocked Forest

From Dave Brigham:

I really need to keep better track of where I get leads for this blog. At some point in the last several months, I read about a place called the Landlocked Forest in Burlington, Mass. I can tell you that I saw somebody's photos on Flickr featuring junked cars in the wooded expanse, and that's what convinced me to visit.

The conservation area is located on the border with neighboring Lexington. I parked in the small lot along Turning Mill Road, not far from an old paint mine I explored several years before (see September 2, 2014, "Make Mine Paint").

Along the power line trail leading to the forest, I met a distressed ursas arctos.

Once I got in the forest, I spent approximately 98% of my time and 87% of my energy swatting away bugs of all sorts - mosquitos, flies, gnats, you name it. I had a general idea of where the rusted-out jalopies were, so I followed my instincts as I headed north through the trees. After a while, I came across some extremely rusty something-or-others.

While the Friends of the Burlington Landlocked Forest indicates on its web site that there is within the woods a stone foundation from a home dating to the 1700s, I didn't see it. And I have no idea what the rusted metal in the photos above might have been. Part of an old shed, perhaps?

I kept chugging along, heading east until I was close to Route 3. I'd seen a mama deer, thanks to a heads-up from a passing mountain biker, but not much else of interest. I turned back to the west, swatting away bugs all the while, trying to make sense of Google Maps as I wandered. I got close to a residential development at one point, so had to head a little more south. I hit a few dead ends and was starting to get a little frustrated when -- AHA!!

I don't know what kind of car that is, nor can I identify either of the other two show below.

So why are there cars strewn across the wooded landscape in the middle of a lovely hiking and biking oasis?

Until the 1950s, at least some of the forested land was privately owned. There was, I assume, at least one road here, a throughway where at some point a few cars broke down or were stolen and abandoned. In the '50s, the state extended Route 3 south through Burlington and "owners of the property within the Landlocked Forest were compensated by the State because they were now unable to access their land," according to the Friends of the Burlington Landlocked Forest web site.

In the ensuing decades, the property owners petitioned the state legislature to permit access to the land from Route 3, but each time they were denied. In the late 1980s, the Town of Burlington took the property by eminent domain and created the conservation area.

I hope to return to the Landlocked Forest this fall or winter, when I can enjoy an insect-free walk.

To see more junked cars in the woods, check out the links below:

March 30, 2024, "Finding the Fascinating Ford's Folly"

August 30, 2016, "The Tavern of Death"

April 2, 2010, "Time Capsule Car"

Saturday, November 16, 2024

The Shire of Worcester, Part the Fifth

From Dave Brigham:

Welcome back to Woo Town!!

Today's post concerns a relatively small triangle of South Worcester, between the Main South and Hadwen Park neighborhoods. I started at Breen's Cafe, an Irish bar located at 16 Cambridge Street that gets strong online reviews, is located in a cool building and has not one but two great signs.

Established in 1934, Breen's is known for its steak and cheese sandwich.

From there, I made my way southwest along Webster Street, skirting a two-car accident attended by police and EMTs at the intersection with Mill Street (not too serious-looking). I passed a handsome old firehouse and a few non-descript industrial buildings before finding some photo-worthy stuff.

Buildings flanking Webster Street were originally part of the Spencer Wire Company, and were built in the late-18th century and early 19th.

"The Spencer Wire Company, which began in [nearby] Spencer...in the early 19th century, built a new wire manufacturing complex on Webster Street...at the turn of the century," according to MACRIS. "This property's proximity to the Boston & Albany Railroad was a definite draw for a company seeking to expand the market for their product. The initial wire mill buildings were erected on the NE corner of Webster and Jacques Sts. in 1899; new buildings were added to (or, in a few cases, purchased for) this expanding complex over the next two decades.

"Mergers in 1918 and 1919 created the Wickwire-Spencer Steel Co., with headquarters in Buffalo, N.Y. The Webster Street plant, known as the Goddard Works, was closed in 1944 and sold to the Handy Pad Surgical Supply Company, which occupied much of the former wire-manufacturing complex in the 1940s-70s."

I wrote about Wickwire-Spencer in my post detailing my second visit to Clinton, Mass. (see August 5, 2023, "Clinton Redux: Mills and Industrial Sites").

As you can tell from the photos, there are numerous small businesses and organizations here, including New Star Bodywork, offering Chinese bodywork; Gold Star, Inc.,a builder; Austin Furniture; and Rae Town Missionary Church of Jesus Christ Mount Zion.

Around the corner on Jacques Street, I really liked the mural on the garage door of New England Engine & Parts Warehouse.

Heading south on Webster Street, next to the train tracks, is Worcester Chemical Distribution Corp., which is located in another former Spencer Wire building.

I continued on for a few minutes until I hit Hope Cemetery, where my eyes jumped out of my head when I saw the circa-1889 barn at the northwest corner of the burial ground.

"The barn, which replaced the earlier structure of 1876, retains its architectural integrity," according to MACRIS. "It is a fine Stick Style structure, characterized by its verticality, angularity, steeply pitched roof and cupola, and overhanging eaves which are pierced with dormers. The Queen Anne Style is seen in the shaped shingles on the second floor which wrap around the corners of the structure."

I made only one other photo here, of the H.H. King-Harding mausoleum, which dates to 1898.

I doubled back and headed east on Fremont Street, which is lined with old industrial buildings.

"David Gessner Machine Company...was started by David Gessner in 1882 on Union Street in Worcester and moved to this site in 1907 to expand the business of manufacturing cloth fInishing machinery," according to MACRIS. As of that report in 2001, the company was still in business. It is no longer a going concern. In 2019, real estate developer Norfolk Realty acquired the site for $1.2 million, according to this Worcester Business Journal article.

The property appeared to be vacant when I happened by.

Across the street is the former Worcester Bleach and Dye Works, which was most recently occupied by Valkyrie Company, a manufacturer of leather goods.

From MACRIS: "The Worcester Bleach & Dye Works was established in the mid 19th c. for the bleaching and dyeing of thread and yard. In 1888, Worcester Bleach & Dye Works moved from Grove Street to a (no longer extant) 2-story, wood-frame building at 61 Fremont Street. The plant was enlarged in 1909 with the construction of this brick building at 60 Fremont Street. The company occupied these two buildings until the mid-1930s. This building was subsequently occupied by the Economic Machinery Co. (labeling machine manufacturers) from 1944 to 1962, and by the Capitol Footwear Co. from 1968 to 1985."

Continuing east-northeast on Fremont, I crossed the street to check out a gate offering a view to the railroad tracks beyond.

The gate is marked "CF," which may have been for Consolidated Freightways, trucking company that "[a]t its height...possessed over 350 terminals, employing more than 15,000 truck drivers, dock workers, dispatchers and management," per Wikipedia.

The building next to this gate, currently home to Plastek Polybag, was originally a foundry operated by Fremont Casting Co., per MACRIS. This building was adjacent to the Worcester Consolidated Street Railway Power House, which has been demolished.

(Lovely scene at Plastek Polybag.)

To wrap up, I made my way to Cambridge Street, to the Salvation Army Adult Rehabilitation Center. There, a very faint, partial ghost sign caught my eye.

I can make out the word "PLACE" but not what comes before it. This building at 72 Cambridge Street rose in 1907 for the Reed & Prince Manufacturing Company, which was a tack manufacturing business. A subsequent business, Reed & Prince Screw Company, was located here more recently.

Below are links to the previous four installments in my ongoing Worcester series.

April 13, 2024, "The Shire of Worcester, Part the Fourth"

February 10, 2024, "The Shire of Worcester, Part the Third"

February 3, 2024, "The Shire of Worcester, Part the Second"

January 27, 2024, "The Shire of Worcester, Part the First"

Saturday, November 9, 2024

Having a Whale of a Time in New Bedford, Part IV

From Dave Brigham:

In a series I published last summer, I covered a LOT in New Bedford, Mass.: old theaters, ghost signs, cool architecture, a jail, churches, murals, a former candleworks, a giant tea kettle, new development, a whaling statue and much more (see June 22, 2024, "Having a Whale of a Time in New Bedford, Part III", June 15, 2024, "Having a Whale of a Time in New Bedford, Part II" and June 8, 2024, "Having a Whale of a Time in New Bedford, Part I").

But I knew there was more to explore. Today I am sharing the fourth part in this series, featuring all sorts of great stuff I found on my return trip: a former Sunbeam bread factory, an old ladder manufacturing plant, some cool old signs, a 94-year-old hot dog stand, an ivy-covered mill building and much more. I hope to visit the city again in the not-too-distant future.

After parking at Riverside Skateboard Park, I walked past some massively long old mill buildings hard by the Acushnet River. I was happy to see that some of these have been redeveloped into housing and office space. I thought there was still a mill operating here when I saw the bright and shiny Cliftex Corp. sign at 170 Riverside Avenue.

But Cliftex is no longer producing its Clipper Craft suits for boys and men. More than a decade ago this massive building -- measuring 130 feet deep by 598 feet long -- and others in the area were converted to apartments, per this South Coast Today article from 2013.

The building, known historically as Manomet Mill No. 1, dates to 1903, per MACRIS, and was "built for the manufacture of Mule Spun combed yarns....At the peak of it's (sic) activity, the entire Manomet complex was New Bedford's largest cotton yarn manufacturer, with 318,000 spindles and between 4,000 and 4,500 employees. Manomet No. 4 was the largest single spinning unit in the world."

The building "was sold in 1928 to the Delaware Rayon Company," MACRIS continues. "The structure, built of brick...stood three stories in height. The Delaware Rayon Company changed their name to New Bedford Rayon. The company remained in business until 1970, when a fire swept through Manomet Mill No. 1, and New Bedford Rayon was liquidated. In the same year, Cliftex Clothing purchased & refurbished this mill."

A nearby mill complex is home to menswear company Joseph Abboud. I was happy to see so many old buildings given new life.

Heading southwest on Belleville Avenue, I spied the Whaling City Club.

The building dates to 1896, according to the city's assessor's office; I'm not sure how long the club has been in existence.

I got back to my car and was heading west on Coffin Avenue when I slammed on the brakes, made a U-turn and got my bread-loving ass out of the car to make the shot below.

This former Sunbeam Bread baking plant dates to 1934, but has been empty for nearly two decades, I believe. This site is where My Bread Baking Company was founded in 1912, according to MACRIS. "In 1927 My Bread Baking Company joined the Quality Bakers of America Cooperative, Inc., of New York," MACRIS continues. "After the Second World War, Quality Bakers affiliates acquired an exclusive license to bake and sell Sunbeam Bread, doughnuts, rolls, muffins, and sweet goods. The bread was first produced in Philadelphia in 1942, but the 'batter-whipped' process for which Sunbeam Bread is principally known was pioneered by Joseph P. Duchaine" of My Bread Baking Company.

"In 1955 [the company] was bought by the New Bedford Baking Company," according to this New Bedford Guide article. "[I]n 1996 First Citizens’ Federal Credit Union purchased it and in 1998 it was resold to St. Louis based company Earthgrains. When it closed its doors in 2005, it employed approximately 180 people. Malden-based corporation Lucar Development LLC bought the property in 2006 for $725,000....In 2011, New Bedford Baking Company opened discussions with the city to reopen the Coffin Avenue facility and begin baking again. They figured it would take $8 million to being the building up to code, repair and purchase equipment, and get up and running. Getting the facility going again was projected to create 150 new jobs. Alas, nothing came to fruition and the property [was put] up for sale."

I'm not sure of the status of the building today.

As for Sunbeam Bread, the company's "long-time mascot is called Little Miss Sunbeam, according to Wikipedia. "In 1942, illustrator Ellen Barbara Segner was commissioned by the Quality Bakers of America to create a marketing symbol of a young child." In the summer of 2020, I stumbled across a Sunbeam Bread delivery trailer in Wareham, Mass., that features a faded image of Little Miss Sunbeam (see August 4, 202, "A Little Sunbeam").

My next destination was about a mile due south from the old bread factory, but I ended up finding something completely different than what I'd planned for. Ahead of time, I'd found via MACRIS the old Grinnell Cotton Textile Mill on Kilburn Street, just south of I-195. The complex is huge and held some promise, but it wasn't quite gnarly enough for me, which is a good thing for the many small businesses located there. Instead, I walked around the corner onto North Front Street and found....

...this amazing site.

Built in 1887 as a drug store, this place was constructed for Louis Normandin, according to MACRIS. "The building’s north and south halves remained a store and drug store, respectively, until at least 1924. By 1927, the building was owned by the Grinnell Manufacturing Company," MACRIS continues. By 1955, the building was in use by the Cape Cod Ladder Manufacturing Company, whose sign is still so prominent today. I assume Cape Cod Staging -- as seen in the roached-out metal vertical sign -- was part of the same business.

Located in what is known as the Hicks-Logan district, the old shop/factory is part of what New Bedford's mayor, Jon Mitchell, referrred to as the "most distressed neighborhood in the city," in this January 11, 2023, article from The New Bedford Light. That story is about a redevelopment plan for the area that's been in the works for many years.

The plan calls for, among other things, an "inland area west of Belleville Avenue and North Front Street extending south to Wamsutta Street" for residential, commercial and some limited industrial use, according to the article, and a "smaller waterfront area east of Belleville and North Front" for waterfront-related uses and possibly hotels and restaurants.

From there, I headed north to a section of Acushnet Avenue, where at #1637 I spied a building that I thought might be an old theater.

It's not. This building dates to around 1920 and is known as the Happy Home Furniture Company building, according to MACRIS, which provides no further details. One source online about Whaling City history indicates the store had a Sunday radio hour on local station WNBH.

The current tenant is Sugar Daddy's Tanning salon.

I headed south on Acushnet Avenue for a ways, and then doubled back. Along the way, I saw a handful of cool signs, a mix of old and newish.

(The One 2 Five bargain store is out of business.)

(Mi Antojo (My Craving) Market is located in the the Allen-Charrette Building, which I mentioned in Part III of this series.)

(I really like the sign for the Casanova Gift Shop, especially the clock.)

(Around the corner on Coffin Avenue, renovation work has brought to light an old sign for Mainline Paints. This building was (maybe is?) home to the Portuguese Times and the Portuguese Channel.

(I'm always happy to see new signs that make an effort to stand out, such as the one at Lord Utmost School of Martial Arts.)

As I continued north on Acushnet Avenue, crossing over Earle Street, I did a double-take.

Wow. Just wow.

I've been to a few Italian festivals in Boston and other locations, but I've never seen a welcoming gate like the one in New Bedford for the Feast of the Blessed Sacrament. This past summer the community enjoyed the 108th such celebration, which featured four days and four stages of live entertainment, as well as a special procession on the opening day and food and drink and more food and drink.

According to the festival's web site, the feast is the largest Portuguese Feast in the world, and the largest ethnic festival in New England, attracting hundreds of thousands of visitors from around the globe.

Steps away is a legendary New Bedford takeout joint.

Charlie's Hot Dog Stand traces its roots to the 1930s, when Charlie Poulos began selling food in a temporary spot at 1648 Acushnet Avenue. In 2018, the stand closed "due to health issues," according to a Facebook posting. I'm not sure when it reopened, or whether it was closed at any other time in the last 90 years.

Across the street is Samuel's Place, a breakfast joint and "waffle heaven" that unfortunately has hung up its chef's hat and waffle iron. It was located in what's known as the Dr. Bertha F. Carl House, which was built in 1896.

On the side of 1700 Acushnet Avenue, heading down Nash Road, is a ghost sign that's so worn I couldn't make out anything.

The commercial building rose in 1919, according to MACRIS. At least I know that the advertisement was painted by a company called Gaudette Signs.

My time running low, I left Acushnet Avenue and drove south to the area of Rodney French Boulevard, to check out some old industrial properties. Rodney French, by the way, was an abolitionist, politician and merchant who served as mayor of New Bedford in the mid-19th century, according to Wikipedia.

At 63 David Street, I liked the rough look of the building and the sign for Allen Gasket Cutting Machine Company.

I'm not sure when Allen Gasket was founded, but it was no later than the 1930s. In 2012, The Allpax Company of Mamaroneck, New York, acquired "certain assets" of the company. The building is shown on a map for the MACRIS file about the adjacent Butler Textile Mill property, with information indicating this building was erected in 1921, and was used to manufacture insulating plastics.

Fronting on Rodney French Boulevard and running between David and Mott streets, the former Holmes Manufacturing Cotton Yarn Mill is quite an imposing presence. And even though the complex is in decent shape, I could've made a ton of my usual gritty old factory shots. But I went with two softer images.

(Industrial vent and lovely hydrangeas.)

(I believe this ivy-covered building was where administrators worked.)

Ccurrently a distribution center operated by Cornell-Dubilier, which makes capacitors for the power electronics industry, this giant complex dates to 1909. "Holmes Mfg. specialized in high quality (sic) mercerized combed yarn for crocheting, it was the first mill in the city to 'mercerize' cotton yarns," per MACRIS. Merriam-Webster defines mercerize as "to give (a material, such as cotton yarn) luster, strength, and receptiveness to dyes by treatment under tension with caustic soda."

Hmm. This seems to foreshadow an environmental problem.

MACRIS continues: "Because of the high quality of the fine yarns made here, two very special kinds of cotton were used. Egyptian and Pima cotton were used....During its peak production, the mill produced 200,000 pounds of yarn per week. The mill was equipped with approximately 65,000 spinning spindles.

"Holmes Manufacturing ceased operation in 1931. Holmes sold out to Kendall Company in 1934. Land, buildings and equipment were sold for $100,000. Kendall added 800 looms and manufactured gauze and diaper material until 1940. Kendall closed the plant in 1940 as a non-profit-producing unit. In 1940, Cornell Dubilier purchased [the] plant."

Now, I don't mean to single out Cornell-Dubilier or the prior tenants of this mill complex for environmental issues. Any factory or manufacturing plant is going to, unfortunately, produce toxic waste of one sort or another. It just so happens that in searching for information about this site and the present occupant, I came across a June 1, 2022, article from The New Bedford Light headlined, "New Bedford looks to end its 40-Year environmental nightmare," which focuses on two companies: Aerovox and, you guessed it, Cornell-Dubilier.

"By the late 1970s, it was clear that Aerovox, along with Cornell-Dubilier (a second electronic capacitor manufacturer on the South End peninsula), had done quite a job on the New Bedford-Fairhaven Harbor," according to the article. "Not to mention the city’s landfills. In fact, the two companies had spilled and dumped so many dangerous PCBs (polychlorinated biphenyls) into the Acushnet River that the site was to become the largest Superfund (EPA cleanup) site in any harbor in the country."

Wow.

In 2010, the federal government reached an agreement with Aerovox's parent company to demolish its building, which sat directly across from the Cliftex site mentioned at the top of this post. The site remains vacant. The company also commmitted to paying $366 million to clean up New Bedford Harbor.

The Environmental Protection Agency announced last year that it had secured an additional $73 million (I'm not sure from what source) to finish cleaning up the harbor. "The EPA announcement...included the fact that the state of Massachusetts has reached a deal with Cornell-Dubilier to fund $3.6 million of shoreline remediation along the remediated harbor and $400,000 for the state’s cost of operating and maintaining the Superfund remedy," per the article.

Here's hoping the harbor finishes getting scrubbed ASAP.

I have more New Bedford sites in mind, so keep your eyes peeled in the coming months (years?).

Checking Out Dudley Street in Roxbury...and a Historic, Pre-Civil War House

From Dave Brigham: As part of a series of quick-hit jaunts through Boston this spring, I checked out the outer reaches of Nubian Square, m...