The Backside of America

It’s Really Big, Sometimes Beautiful and Always Worth a Second Look

Sunday, August 18, 2024

The Backside is Coming! The Backside is Coming - to Revere! (Part VII)

From Dave Brigham:

We finally made it to the beach!

In my series about Revere, Mass., I've covered commercial districts, diners, a former trailer park, areas under redevelopment and more (for links to previous posts, see the bottom of this one). Now it's time to discuss the most significant feature of this city just north of Boston.

For a not insignificant portion of the world, Revere = the beach. And rightfully so. The beach stretches for three miles along Massachusetts Bay, attracting thousands of sun worshippers, swimmers and people-watchers on any given summer day. The first public beach in the United States, Revere Beach was from the late 19th century through the middle of last century filled with dance halls, an amusement park, restaurants, roller skating rinks, bowling alleys, bars and more. It was a world-class entertainment destination.

While it's still a great place to visit with good food and entertainment and shopping nearby, it's just not what it used to be. I got depressed reading the history of the beach, realizing just how many cool old buildings and attractions had been demolished in the last 50 years or so.

In the late 19th century and for many years, people could access the beach by a narrow gauge railroad (nowadays the MBTA's Blue Line subway can get you there). "From all over New England, families would vacation at cottages, hotels or even in tents high up on Beachmont Hill," according to the history blog post linked above. "They came to enjoy the Coney Island of the East, Revere Beach. The Boulevard boasted rides, dance-halls, movie theaters, carousels, rollercoasters and all kinds of special attractions. Bluebeard’s Palace, Nautical Gardens, The Pit and the Himalaya were just a few. Hotels and restaurants lined the beach. The Pleasanton Hotel, The Strathmore, The Metropolitan and The Point of Pines Hotel were just four of the most noteworthy."

"The Hippodrome originally built in 1903, had a platform that displayed three Carousel horses abreast; it was later extended to showcase five abreast making it one of a kind. The organ music of the two Gavioli organs can still be heard with the memory of this majestic carousel which operated until May 1973. Wonderland Park, Revere Beach’s Mystic City by the Sea, was America’s foremost self-contained amusement park. Conceived in 1905, it opened in 1906. Some people believe it to be the inspiration behind the Disney theme parks of today. The similarities are striking."

Boy, do I wish I couldl've been in Revere a hundred years ago. Or even more recently while these places were out of business but still standing. According to Wikipedia, the amusements at Revere Beach had fallen out of my favor starting in the 1950s. The infamous Blizzard of '78 "destroyed many of the remaining structures, the sidewalks, and the sea wall." The beach was revitalized in the years after that, and today it is known best for its annual sand sculpting festival.

While the beach looks great, I was surprised by how few places to eat and hang out are located alongside. There are high-rise apartment buildings, a few places to eat, drink and be merry, and little to no trace of any of those historic places. If you want to learn more about the beach, read the article linked above, or check out Wikipedia and this article from The Prodigal's Chair blog.

Let me show you what I found.

Located at the corner of Shirley and Ocean avenues, within sight of the beach, BK's Bar and Grill seems to be a nuthin' fancy place where you can drink a few cold ones, watch the Sox or Celtics and have a decent meal. Up until February 2023, as you can see in the second photo above, Sissy Kelley was the boss. Her oldest son, Bobby, runs the joint now, according to her obituary.

I walked south along Revere Beach Boulevard for a few minutes, but, seeing nothing of interest, circled back to Nick's Place, which evidently specializes in chicken kabobs.

Right next door is Sammy's Patio, which features weekly karaoke, concerts, DJ/dance nights, private parties and live entertainment, per its Facebook page. Both Sammy's and Nicks have been located here for many years.

Continuing north along Revere Beach Boulevard, you come to Bill Ash's Lounge.

(Rear of Bill Ash's Lounge.)

This place seems like it's been here a long time.

Steps away is Twist & Shake, which has also been here for many years.

As you continue north, there is a nice tree-lined reservation between Revere Beach Boulevard and Ocean Avenue. And on the west side of Ocean Avenue, there are gigantic apartment buildings. Keep walking past the state police barracks, more apartment buildings, some houses and you finally come to another entertainment venue: La Maquina.

This is a dance club. That is all.

The final food destinations have similar names but very different menu options.

Kelly's Roast Beef has 14 locations across Massachusetts, New Hampshire and Florida, but this one is the original. "Before 1951, no one thought to eat thinly sliced, melt in your mouth roast beef in sandwich form," per the eatery's web site. "We did. Yep, we’re known as the inventor of the roast beef sandwich topped with American Cheese, mayonnaise, and James River BBQ Sauce, affectionately known as the three-way. Just ask anyone from Boston’s North Shore, where we’ve been a staple for over 70 years."

A little further north on Revere Beach Boulevard is Kell's Kreme, which specializes in soft serve ice cream, sundaes, frappes and more.

This place is another local legend that's been around for years.

I'm going to wrap up this post talking about things that are actually on Revere Beach. The first is the Shirley Avenue Bath House.

OK, so I don't have anything to say about this building other than it provides an important function as a public bathroom. The building is from the 1930s, I'm guessing.

There are several pavilions located along the beach, as well as the Rep. William G. Reinstein bandstand.

The most fascinating things I saw during this trip were multiple speakers facing the beach, which I assume used to (maybe still do) pump music from the bandstand out to the beachgoers.