Saturday, August 31, 2024

Floating Through Fall River, Part II*

From Dave Brigham:

* No actual floating was undertaken in pursuit of this and other posts about Fall River.

I know I say this a lot, but I've had the old manufacturing city of Fall River in the back of my mind for years. I recall driving past numerous old mills along Interstate 195 on my way to Newport, R.I., many years ago, and being quite intrigued by the granite buildings, which are much lighter in color than the typical brick factories I see around New England.

In my first post about Fall River, I discussed signs, a mural, tile entryways and ghost signs (see August 24, 2024, "Floating Through Fall River, Part I*").

In this post, I will cover mill buildings and one fairly gritty non-industrial property. There will be a third post about everything else that I typically obsess about on this blog.

There are more than 60 historic textile mills in Fall River, down from a high of at least 120 in the 19th and early 20th centuries, when the city was the leading cotton textile center in the United States, according to Wikipedia. I only had time to check out a handful of the old mills, but I hope to return to scope out more.

The first mills were established in Fall River (at the time, part of Tiverton, Rhode Island) early in the 19th century. "The Quequechan River, with its eight falls, combined to make Fall River the best tidewater privilege in southern New England," per Wikipedia. "It was perfect for industrialization — big enough for profit and expansion, yet small enough to be developed by local capital without interference from Boston."

Evidently, I made a damn good choice for the first building I checked out - the former Chace Mills on Lewiston Street, hard by the interstate and the Quequechan River.

"The monumental granite Chace Mill of 1872 has been called the most imposing and attractive in the city and stands out because of its relatively isolated site and finely detailed Italianate stair tower," per MACRIS. "The Chace Mills was one of 15 textile companies organized during the years 1871-2, a period of remarkable expansion in the city's manufacturing capacity. Capitalized at $500,000, the mill was named after one of the organizers and first president, Augustus Chace....The first mill was erected in 1872 and had a capacity of 43,480 spindles and 1,056 looms producing 12 million yards of print cloth annually. A bleaching, dyeing and finishing mill was added in 1895."

That's a lot of print cloth!

As regular readers know, I love New England's old mill towns, from the former factory buildings that have been redeveloped into artist/living/office space to the ones that stand derelict, from the wonderful architecture making up the city halls, banks and social clubs to the old bars, theaters and commercial districts. As hard as I try, I find it hard to visualize what these cities were like when they were going like gangbusters, with thousands of mill workers coming and going, trains and ships filling up with textiles and other products, diners jammed from end to end with workers filling their bellies, taverns loud with the noise of after-work crowds.

By the late 1920s, a company called Arkwright took over this facility. In 1999 there was a fire here, with some smaller buildings destroyed. There is a UHaul facility here currently, and perhaps other businesses. I was reluctant to walk around this place for too long, as there were a couple of sketchy dudes hanging out watching me, and my time was short.

At the corner of Rodman Street and Plymouth Avenue stands the Davol Mills, a more traditional brick complex, albeit one with a Mansard roof, which is a bit unusual. MACRIS says this is the sole survivor of Fall River's Mansard roof mills.

From Wikipedia: "The Davol Mills Company was organized in 1866, with nineteen persons, with initial capital set at $270,000, and named in honor of William C. Davol, a machinery builder who is credited with importing the Roberts Self-acting Mule from Great Britain to Fall River in the early 1840s. Mill No. 1 was built in 1867 at the corner of Rodman Street and Eight Rod Way (now known as Plymouth Avenue). The machinery was in operation by March 1868. The Davol Mills initially produced cotton shirtings, sheetings, silesias [thin twilled woven cloth made of linen or cotton] and fancy fabrics. In 1871, Mill No. 2 was built along Hartwell Street, connected to the first mill. By 1917, the Davol Mills contained 44,000 spindles and 1,258 looms. The company acquired the nearby Tecumseh Mills in 1924. It shut down in 1935."

The mill, which is included in the Corky Row Historic District, was taken over by the Dover Stamping Company at some point. Current occupants of the old Davol place include Gold Airport Transportation and the Medical Drug Testing Laboratory, among (I think) others.

From the old Davol mill, I walked north-northeast past the former Tecumseh Mill, which was converted to apartments in the 1980s. I opted not to make any photos of it. At 138 Hartwell Street, though, some buildings caught my eye.

This is the former Frank M. Silvia School, which was built in 1902. From what I've been able to find out online (without the benefit of a subscription to the Fall River Herald News), the school was closed a while ago and the city has been trying to find a developer to take on a project here. Next door is a former school building division complex.

Along Pleasant Street, between 7th and 12th streets, is the most impressive complex I saw: Durfee Mills.

Again, my time was limited - and I was fighting the sun, so I only made a few shots. From MACRIS: "Durfee Mills was the largest single firm of textile manufacturers in Fall River. The mill buildings, standing at right angles to Pleasant Street, with the granite office bldg. between them, are among the most visually significant industrial structures in downtown Fall River."

More from MACRIS: "The firm was organized in 1866 with a capital of $500,000 and named after Major Bradford Durfee, whose son, B.M.C. Durfee, was the principal stockholder and original president. Major Durfee has been credited as 'the originator of plans which were the inception of Fall River's industrial life.' With Colonel Richard Borden, he was the founder of the Fall River Iron Works Company, which began as an iron manufactory and which constructed many of the city's earliest textile mills. The first two Durfee mills were erected in 1866 and 1871, and in 1877 the company had a capacity of 87,424 spindles and 2,064 looms. Its product was print cloth, of which 23 million yards were made in 1877, consuming 9,500 bales of cotton and employing 950 operatives. After the #3 mill was built in 1881, the firm had a capacity of 109,360 spindles, a number which increased to 151,328 by 1920. During the 20th century, the company remained the largest Fall River textile firm not part of a larger conglomerate. The corporation was liquidated in 1935."

Today, there are numerous businesses located in the complex, including Prima Care Medical Center, the accounting firm of Dorman & Associates, the General Fitness gym, Regiment martial arts training center and Delken Dry Cleaning.

Heading east-southeast on Pleasant Street for a bit, you will come to the Stafford Mills complex at the intersection of Quarry and County streets.

Currently occupied by Globe Furniture Outlet and probably other businesses, the old Stafford buildings date to 1872, 1888 (the granite mills) and 1896, the detached, Richardsonian Romanesque brick office building (pictured below).

From MACRIS: "The Stafford Mills was one of 15 textile corporations founded between 1871 and 1872 during a period of rapid expansion of the city's manufacturing capacity (hmm....seems I've read this somewhere before). The company was organized in 1870 but reorganized in 1871 with a capital of $550,000. It was named in honor of its founder and first president, Foster H. Stafford, a man who began working in mills as a young boy."

Stafford Mills closed in 1929. I'm not sure if another manufacturing operation took over at that point.

The final site on my mill tour is special because it still functions as a manufacturing hub.

The No. 2 Granite Mills building on Bedford Street, between Robeson and Seabury streets, was built in 1871 as part of a larger complex. The Granite Mills was a textile operation founded in 1863 that made, according to MACRIS, "fancy goods as well as plain cloth, and the beauty and elaborateness of some of the products was (sic) noted in a 1902 review of the American cotton industry....In 1932 the company was sold to the Pepperell Manufacturing Co."

Subsequent to the Pepperell Company, the mill buildings were owned and occupied by Anderson-Little, a men's clothing manufacturer and retailer that was founded in the 1920s in Boston and moved to Fall River in the 1930s. I remember seeing TV commercials and newspaper ads for the brand when I was a kid. The company closed in 1998, but the brand has been revived as a web-only retailer.

Currently, the Granite Mills building is occupied by the Merrow Sewing Maching Company, an operation founded in Connecticut in 1838 that has been in Fall River since 2004. Joseph Merrow started a business in the Nutmeg State manufacturing gunpowder, but after a fire destroyed that mill, he turned to making knit cotton goods, according to the company's history on its web site. In due time, Merrow began manufacturing sewing machines.

The company continued to grow internationally. In 2010, the founder's great-grandnephews moved operations to Fall River.

Make sure to check back for the third and final post in this series, in which I will discuss a diner, named buildings, a church, fraternal organizations and much more.

Saturday, August 24, 2024

Floating Through Fall River, Part I*

From Dave Brigham:

* No actual floating was undertaken in pursuit of this and other posts about Fall River.

This first post (of three) about Fall River, Mass., will include signs, a mural, tile entryways and ghost signs. Let's start off with a bang!

After parking at the Stop & Shop on Rodman Street (plenty of parking, public bathroom - keys to successful backsidin'), I headed southeast and within a few minutes, spotted that fantastic ghost sign. Look at that patina! Admire the lettering - especially the lowercase "i" in each word!

Mackenzie & Winslow was a lumber company and was also involved in the grain business, from what I've dug up online. The property fronts on a segment of the Alfred J. Lima Quequechan River Rail Trail, which makes it attractive for redevelopment.

A short distance away, on Lawrence Street, I spied a ghost sign on the side of the Tremblay Bus Company building.

Online, I found a listing for Thomas Storage in a 1908 New England Business Directory and Gazeteer. I'm not sure when the company was founded, or when it went out of business.

On the side of an old mill building at the corner of Rodman Street and Plymouth Avenue, I saw a ghost sign the likes of which I've never seen.

The New England Chess Academy is no longer active.

West-northwest of that location, where Rodman Street meets South Main Street, I saw a ghost that I couldn't identify.

In older Google Street View images, the sign has been painted over, so I'm happy to see that the sign is fighting its way back to relevance. The building rose in 1923 as the Adaskin Furniture Company. I'm assuming another similar store was there in more recent years.

I'm bouncing around here, as you can probably tell, as I'm organizing this post by type of element, as opposed to geography.

Back across from the aforementioned rail trail entrance is Rosaria's Diner, which has been in business for more than 20 years.

I dig the no-frills sign, with a plate of eggs, hash and bacon at the top, and a burger, fries and a soda at the bottom.

I walked a LOT during my afternoon in Fall River. About half an hour southeast from Rosaria's I found another plastic sign for an eatery.

What a bright and cheerful sign!

At the corner of Pleasant and Quequechan streets, I spied two cool signs for very different businesses.

I've never seen a fruit store, so that's cool. And I've never seen a sign advertising Diet Rite Cola. Double score!

Next door in this building was the Rock & Roll Saloon, which is unfortunately no longer in business.

I'm not sure when it shut down; every Google Street View image going back 15 years look exactly like my photo -- metal gates drawn down.

Just off North Main Street downtown, I saw a brightly colored building with a tasteful sign outside.

Located on Franklin Street, the Police Athletic League was established in 1962 to provide recreational program for the city's youth. In addition to doing that, the organization hosts wrestling and boxing events, offers pickleball programs and more, per its Facebook page.

The building is known historically as Fall River Masonic Hall.

One of Fall River's tourist draws is the Lizzie Borden House. For those who don't know that name, Wikipedia will tell you that Lizzie Borden "was an American woman who was tried and acquitted of the August 4, 1892 axe murders of her father and stepmother in Fall River, Massachusetts. No one else was charged in the murders, and, despite ostracism from other residents, Borden spent the remainder of her life in Fall River. She died of pneumonia at the age of 66, just days before the death of her older sister, Emma."

I didn't stumble across the family's former home (I had no clue where it was, as I didn't look it up beforehand), but I did walk past the Borden Apartments building, which is close to the house.

Steps away, along 4th Street overlooking Interstate 195, is a great civic-pride mural.

There were a couple of auto-body shops that caught my eye. Jeronimo's Collision Center on 7th Street had just the right patina for me.

Parallel to that place, on 6th Street, is the even more picturesque Richard's Auto Body & Painting.

I walk with my head on a swivel in a place like Fall River, looking up for ghost signs and murals and named buildings, and down for old tile entryways. I found a nice batch.

The first two are located steps aways from each other on North Main Street; they may have been created by the same hand.

These tile works, which look like they've been fixed up in recent years, are located at entrances to 52-64 North Main Street, which is known as the Bennett Building. The building dates to 1900. I haven't found what the ABC Shop was. The space is currently occupied by Neighborhood Variety.

Along South Main Street is some tile work for Gorin's, part of a department store chain run out of Boston.

Gorin's sold sold clothing (children to adult), uniforms and linens, according to this Digital Commonwealth photo of a store in Watertown, Mass.. The building dates to 1917.

The Green Stores entryway was somewhere on the 1500 block of Pleasant Street. I haven't found anything about this retailer.

The final sign for this post is something that I've never seen before.

Located on a building at the corner of North Main and Bank streets, this "WARD 7" sign adorns the Durfee Block. I'm guessing the sign is pretty damn old. I don't know whether there are (or were) others like it around the city. As for the building, "This handsome late Victorian commercial building was built in 1887, at the time when the 1870 B.M.C. Durfee & Co., a private banking firm, was chartered as the B.M.C. Durfee Trust Co.," per MACRIS.

Make sure to check back for the second part of my Fall River series, which will cover old mill buildings and other industrial sites.

Sunday, August 18, 2024

The Backside is Coming! The Backside is Coming - to Revere! (Part VII)

From Dave Brigham:

We finally made it to the beach!

In my series about Revere, Mass., I've covered commercial districts, diners, a former trailer park, areas under redevelopment and more (for links to previous posts, see the bottom of this one). Now it's time to discuss the most significant feature of this city just north of Boston.

For a not insignificant portion of the world, Revere = the beach. And rightfully so. The beach stretches for three miles along Massachusetts Bay, attracting thousands of sun worshippers, swimmers and people-watchers on any given summer day. The first public beach in the United States, Revere Beach was from the late 19th century through the middle of last century filled with dance halls, an amusement park, restaurants, roller skating rinks, bowling alleys, bars and more. It was a world-class entertainment destination.

While it's still a great place to visit with good food and entertainment and shopping nearby, it's just not what it used to be. I got depressed reading the history of the beach, realizing just how many cool old buildings and attractions had been demolished in the last 50 years or so.

In the late 19th century and for many years, people could access the beach by a narrow gauge railroad (nowadays the MBTA's Blue Line subway can get you there). "From all over New England, families would vacation at cottages, hotels or even in tents high up on Beachmont Hill," according to the history blog post linked above. "They came to enjoy the Coney Island of the East, Revere Beach. The Boulevard boasted rides, dance-halls, movie theaters, carousels, rollercoasters and all kinds of special attractions. Bluebeard’s Palace, Nautical Gardens, The Pit and the Himalaya were just a few. Hotels and restaurants lined the beach. The Pleasanton Hotel, The Strathmore, The Metropolitan and The Point of Pines Hotel were just four of the most noteworthy."

"The Hippodrome originally built in 1903, had a platform that displayed three Carousel horses abreast; it was later extended to showcase five abreast making it one of a kind. The organ music of the two Gavioli organs can still be heard with the memory of this majestic carousel which operated until May 1973. Wonderland Park, Revere Beach’s Mystic City by the Sea, was America’s foremost self-contained amusement park. Conceived in 1905, it opened in 1906. Some people believe it to be the inspiration behind the Disney theme parks of today. The similarities are striking."

Boy, do I wish I couldl've been in Revere a hundred years ago. Or even more recently while these places were out of business but still standing. According to Wikipedia, the amusements at Revere Beach had fallen out of my favor starting in the 1950s. The infamous Blizzard of '78 "destroyed many of the remaining structures, the sidewalks, and the sea wall." The beach was revitalized in the years after that, and today it is known best for its annual sand sculpting festival.

While the beach looks great, I was surprised by how few places to eat and hang out are located alongside. There are high-rise apartment buildings, a few places to eat, drink and be merry, and little to no trace of any of those historic places. If you want to learn more about the beach, read the article linked above, or check out Wikipedia and this article from The Prodigal's Chair blog.

Let me show you what I found.

Located at the corner of Shirley and Ocean avenues, within sight of the beach, BK's Bar and Grill seems to be a nuthin' fancy place where you can drink a few cold ones, watch the Sox or Celtics and have a decent meal. Up until February 2023, as you can see in the second photo above, Sissy Kelley was the boss. Her oldest son, Bobby, runs the joint now, according to her obituary.

I walked south along Revere Beach Boulevard for a few minutes, but, seeing nothing of interest, circled back to Nick's Place, which evidently specializes in chicken kabobs.

Right next door is Sammy's Patio, which features weekly karaoke, concerts, DJ/dance nights, private parties and live entertainment, per its Facebook page. Both Sammy's and Nicks have been located here for many years.

Continuing north along Revere Beach Boulevard, you come to Bill Ash's Lounge.

(Rear of Bill Ash's Lounge.)

This place seems like it's been here a long time.

Steps away is Twist & Shake, which has also been here for many years.

As you continue north, there is a nice tree-lined reservation between Revere Beach Boulevard and Ocean Avenue. And on the west side of Ocean Avenue, there are gigantic apartment buildings. Keep walking past the state police barracks, more apartment buildings, some houses and you finally come to another entertainment venue: La Maquina.

This is a dance club. That is all.

The final food destinations have similar names but very different menu options.

Kelly's Roast Beef has 14 locations across Massachusetts, New Hampshire and Florida, but this one is the original. "Before 1951, no one thought to eat thinly sliced, melt in your mouth roast beef in sandwich form," per the eatery's web site. "We did. Yep, we’re known as the inventor of the roast beef sandwich topped with American Cheese, mayonnaise, and James River BBQ Sauce, affectionately known as the three-way. Just ask anyone from Boston’s North Shore, where we’ve been a staple for over 70 years."

A little further north on Revere Beach Boulevard is Kell's Kreme, which specializes in soft serve ice cream, sundaes, frappes and more.

This place is another local legend that's been around for years.

I'm going to wrap up this post talking about things that are actually on Revere Beach. The first is the Shirley Avenue Bath House.

OK, so I don't have anything to say about this building other than it provides an important function as a public bathroom. The building is from the 1930s, I'm guessing.

There are several pavilions located along the beach, as well as the Rep. William G. Reinstein bandstand.

The most fascinating things I saw during this trip were multiple speakers facing the beach, which I assume used to (maybe still do) pump music from the bandstand out to the beachgoers.

I've searched high and low online but haven't found out anything about these relics from times gone by. I absolutely love them.

Alright, that wraps up Revere. Here are the links to the previous posts:

August 14, 2024, "The Backside is Coming! The Backside is Coming - to Revere (Part VI)"

August 10, 2024, "The Backside is Coming! The Backside is Coming - to Revere (Part V)"

August 7, 2024, "The Backside is Coming! The Backside is Coming - to Revere (Part IV)"

August 3, 2024, "The Backside is Coming! The Backside is Coming - to Revere (Part III)"

July 31, 2024, "The Backside is Coming! The Backside is Coming - to Revere (Part II)"

July 27, 2024, "The Backside is Coming! The Backside is Coming - to Revere (Part I)"

A Peep at Greenwich Village

From Dave Brigham: Near the end of August I drove to New York City with my daughter and one of her friends. They wanted to check out New Y...