From Dave Brigham:
I'm not sure why it took me so long to explore Somerville, Mass. I lived in the tightly packed city just northwest of Boston back in the mid-'90s, and spent plenty of time there in the ensuing years for one reason or another. This is my third deep dive into the neighborhoods of what locals with their accents call Sumavul (see March 25, 2023, "Square Dancing Around Somerville" and March 11, 2023, "The Pros and Cons of Winter Hill and Gilman Square"). In this first of two posts about East Somerville, I will cover the expanse of Broadway between Foss Park at the northwest end and Caldwell Street, which is hard by Interstate 93 on the border with Boston's Charlestown neighborhood. This is the main commercial district.
While on Google Maps researching places to explore, I noticed the words "Middlesex Canal Marker" at Foss Park, an athletic complex with an outdoor pool, football field, baseball/softball fields and tennis courts. This excited me, because since learning many years ago of the barge canal, which was in operation from Lowell to Charlestown from 1803-1851, I've wanted to find whatever remnants of the waterway that I could. According to the Middlesex Canal Association, "much of the Middlesex Canal is buried under roads and parking lots - even its southern end at Sullivan Square, formerly at the head of Prison Point Bay, is now close to a mile inland. Many traces of the old waterway remain only as dirt-filled paths through suburban backyards, and at the MDC's Sandy Beach Reservation in Winchester. Boston's Canal Street is where the route once extended from the Charles River to Boston Harbor."
Acccording to the canal association, "There are bits and pieces of [the canal] scattered throughout the area like the aqueduct in the Shawsheen River on the Wilmington/Billerica line. There's also a nice section in the woods behind the Wilmington Town Park on Main street running back to Butters Row." Someday I hope to check out these areas.
While a historic marker near the end of the canal's former route isn't the most thrilling discovery, it'll have to do for now.
The Somerville section is "an approximately 16.3-acre, 1.8-mile-long, 75-ft-wide, corridor following the roughly south-north route of the Middlesex Canal between the Charlestown and Medford town lines," according to MACRIS. "This corridor includes the route of the linear canal 'prism,' a term given to the cross-section of the parallel earthwork components of towpath, trench, and berm, and narrows and widens as necessary to accommodate canal-associated engineering infrastructure."
I'm happy to see that beer connoisseurs, with proclivities toward Natural Ice, are known to hang out at this historic marker.
The first building that caught my eye on Broadway was Louie's Ice Cream, which unfortunately closed in 2019 after nearly 40 years in business.
The restaurant is built into the first floor of the house behind it, which dates to *cough cough* 1900, according to the Somerville assessor. Here's hoping another eatery takes over this space before too long.
I detoured northeast on Garfield Avenue to check out a cool old industrial building and a baking operation.
Located in a building circa-1900, Architectural Openings has since 1987 been "designing, manufacturing, installing and servicing our technologically advanced, beautifully crafted, premium exterior window, door and curtain wall products." Funny that a business that apparently does top-notch work is located in a non-descript industrial building that's a bit rough looking.
Across the street is Deano's Pasta, which has been making and selling pasta to restaurants and specialty stores since 1947. The business also sells its products at a shop on this site.
(Mural across the parking lot from the Deano's shop.)
Behind Deano's, at the corner of Blakely Avenue and Cross Street East is another high-end business disguised behind an old facade.
Located in a building that dates to 1910, Tresfort Metal Works "accommodate(s) architects, designers, builders, and artists...to produce their designs in metal," according to the company's web site. Tresfort makes furniture, lights, sculptures, fireplace surrounds, railings and architectural details.
Heading back toward Broadway on Cross Street East, there is a great work of art that is part of the East Somerville Mural Project.
(Detail of the mural, the creation of which was sponsored by East Somerville Main Streets, the Somerville Arts Council, the National Endowment for the Arts, Mudflat Studios, SCATV and Deano's Pasta. Artists are Laura Smith and Nate Swain.)
Next on Cross Street East, across from Chuckie Harris Park, is a building that remained a mystery for me until I did some serious online digging.
My first thought was that this is a former armory, but the more I looked at my photos after the fact, I realized how the windows and doorways and triangular add-on roof over the front door just scream "old church!" Owned by the City of Somerville, this old brick complex is listed on the assessor's database as "warehouse" and "industrial." It is squeezed between a mostly vacant lot with a small NSTAR substation on it, and rowhouses that date to 1879.
(Here's why I get so frustrated about the default date of 1900 used too often on assessors' databases: the City of Somerville lists this building's born-on date as 1900, but a quick look at the foundation gives you the correct answer.)
MACRIS doesn't have anything about this. I conducted searches online and found documents indicating that the City has put out feelers to redevelop this site, but none of that research led me to information about what this place was originally, or even most recently. I scanned Atlas maps and looked at the City's web site for information.
Then, finally, after adding the word "church" to my Google search for the address, I found a community services and activities master plan document from the City of Somerville that confirmed my second guess about this place: "former church and storage for General Insulation." The commercial insulation distributor features a photo of this building, which was its sole location as of the sale of the company in 1982, on the "Our History" section of its web site. The company is still in business, with 45 locations across North America.
But I knew there had to more info out there about this one-time church. If there's anything I've learned in the years of working on this blog, it's that communitites take pride in their houses of worship, both present and past. Your boy would not be deterred.
A few more searches using various terms related to Somerville, East Somerville, General Insulation, maps, church, former church, etc., and I hit paydirt. And boy is that paydirt rich.
"Built for the Randall Memorial Free Baptist Church in 1898, this religious society traces its roots back to 1874 when it was organized in Charlestown," according to this brochure for "From Mansions to Mudflats: A Walking Tour of East Somerville's Cornucopia of Cultural Treasures," which was led by Edward Gordon, president of the New England Chapter of the Victorian Society in America in 2012.
"In 1921, the church was adapted for reuse as the Circle Dance Hall, and it continued to serve as a venue for dancing until at least the 1960s," the brochure continues. "Above all, the building's 20th century historical interest lies in its association with 'Symphony Sid,' a band leader who apparently performed here on a regular basis." Symphony Sid -- known to his friends as Sid Torin (born Sidney Tarnopol -- was a long-time jazz disc jockey in the United States, according to Wikipedia. "Many critics have credited him with introducing bebop to a mass audience," Wikipedia continues. He moved from New York to Boston in 1952, and worked for two stations during his five years in the area.
Whew! I come across buildings like this, and I just know they have fascinating histories, and it's worth all the work to dig it up for my loyal readers.
Moving on.
Joe's Liquor has been around for several years, but I believe this location is relatively new for the store. Prior to the packy, this space was home to Robi Tool Sales.
Across Broadway from the liquor store is a former fire station.
The old Somerville Engine #2 Fire Station was built in 1895 in the Classical Revival style. It is now home to Somerville City TV, which is where the city's government lives online, featuring government meetings, events and community shows. The beautiful old brick building also houses Project Soup, a food bank operated by the Greater Somerville Homeless Coalition.
Next door is a building known historically as the Park Garage Company Building, which dates to 1914.
According to MACRIS, "Unlike today's use of the term garage for a repair business, early 20th century garages were used for the storage and lodging of cars. Many of these establishments featured pick up, delivery services and a gas pump services as well as waiting rooms. The Park Garage was owned by Arthur N. Park and Fred R. Curtis. When constructed, the building had space for 40 cars, a machine shop in the basement for repairs, two 500-gallon gas tanks, a car showroom for Ford, Marmon, and Marathon cars, and a car rental business."
This space is currently occupied by PJ's Motorcars.
Back across Broadway, there is a hole in the ground where Maytag Village Laundry used to be.
The laundromat was built in front of a late-19th/early-20th century Mansard house. The new building will be "a 5-story, mixed-use building with rental/commercial space on the ground floor and rental dwelling units on the upper floors," according to the developer's development review application filed with the city.
Bouncing back over to the opposite side, I love the colorful facades on these places. Broadway is filled with many such small businesses and organizations.
On the left is Connexion, a United Methodist Church that says it is a "reimagined faith community." Its neighbor is Fasika Ethiopian Restaurant.
Opposite these two places is Taqueria Montecristo, located in very attractive Mansard building with apartments up top and retail below. The assessor's office says it was built in 1900.
Next door is 134-136 Broadway, which was built around 1915 with retail space on the ground floor and apartments above. According to MACRIS, "the commercial establishments were not very successful and in 1933 both stores were vacant. The first floor has been converted to residential use and in the process was heavily altered."
Continuing southeast, at the corner of Broadway and Glen Street, is the former East End Grille, which closed in 2016 after just a few years in business, because a new apartment complex was supposed to rise here, according to this Eater Boston article.
On the side of the former restaurant is a fading sign or banner featuring words such as "MOTIVATION," "OPPORTUNITY," "SHELTER" AND "COMFORT."
Two doors down is a three-story building that really sticks out amid the single-story retail buildings.
Currently home to Ola Cafe, which specializes in European pastries, coffee and lunch items, this building dates to 1890.
On the side of the building is a cool mural painted by artist Angurria, also known as Dominican Republic native Omar Garcia.
Steps away is Gauchao Brazilian Cuisine, which features a stunning mural on the exterior side wall.
It was painted by Alexandre Keto, a native of Brazil who has completed more than 1,000 murals in nearly two dozen countries. Of this mural, called "Doña Patria," Keto says it represents a “roda de samba” (samba circle), according to the Somerville Arts Council. " Samba is our traditional music and a 'roda de samba' is what we do with a good barbecue. I drew a couple, Mestre Sala e Porta Bandeira, who are traditional in the carnival with some musicians playing the music. I want to show the festivity and celebration of our culture."
Across Broadway, I dug the facade of Rincon Mexicano ("A corner of Mexico right in our Neighborhood").
Like so many small businesses, Rincon Mexicano is the realization of an immigrant's dream. "In 1989, Chef Lorenzo Reyes moved to the United States with the dream of opening a restaurant that would showcase the best of Mexican cuisine," the eatery's web site reports. "As he worked to establish his family in their new home country, the dream had to emerge over 25 long years....While working in commercial kitchens all around the Boston area, Chef Lorenzo held on to his ultimate dream of opening his own place....Finally, after studying, sampling, and learning in-depth about all the different styles of regional Mexican cooking - and unable to deny his life-long dream any longer - he opened Rincon Mexicano in May 2014."
What a great story.
Next door is Shaddai Boutique and Decorations, which offers event planning services.
Back across Broadway is the Franklin Building, which dates to 1919.
Currently home to Sullivan Square Liquors, Melanie's Boutique and Visual Hair Design, the Franklin was originally occupied by the Winter Hill Cooperative Bank and the Somerville Institution for Savings, according to MACRIS. Furniture and grocery companies occupied the space in later years.
Just across Franklin Street from the former bank building is the wonderful Columbia Building.
Built in 1902, the Columbia is "one of the more well-preserved professional/business blocks outside of Union or Davis Squares," according to MACRIS. "The building was owned and erected by the Columbia Associates, a fraternal organization composed of 50 members," MACRIS continues. "The building, designed by E.L. Clark, had 5 stores on the ground floor, and the second floor, accessed by a marble staircase, had a club room, club offices, lodge apartments, a banquet room, and kitchen. Various commercial uses in the early twentieth century were real estate and insurance offices, a drug store, beauty shop, dentist, and a law office."
Current tenants include Amigos Market.
Across Broadway from the Columbia is the singular Mudflat Studio, which houses a non-profit organization that since 1971 has offered classes, workshops, outreach programing and events focusing on the ceramic arts, according to its web site. The studio is located in the former Hurst's Broadway Theater, and boy does it make its presence known.
(Pottery-themed details have been added.)
(I love the orginal, theatrical details.)
"Hurst's Broadway Theater was built in 1915 for the Star Theaters Incorporated by the Somerville Home Building Association," according to MACRIS. "The Broadway was one of six theaters in Somerville at the time and contemporary newspaper articles attributed a housing boom in East Somerville to the construction of a theater in the neighborhood. The theater had a capacity of 1,850 and continued to operate under various owners through the late 1940s. In 1933 Arthur N. Viano, who built the Teele Square Theater...owned the Broadway and it was known as 'Viano's Broadway',"
The Viano family operated the theater until 1982, when it closed for business, according to this Somerville Times article (scroll down to read).
Ping-ponging back to the other side of Broadway, we come to Vinny's Ristorante.
The building dates to 1890, according to the assessor.
Continuing east, on the side of Somerville Communications & Multi-services, Inc., is yet another great work of art.
"Para la comunidad Salvadorena," or "for the Salvadoran community," the tag line indicates. The artist is Calo Rosa, who was born in San Salvador and lives in Philadelphia. Commissioned by the Somerville Arts Council, this mural is called "Rosalia."
Two doors down is Taco Loco, which has been around for nearly 30 years, and which has a stunning mural on its side wall.
Completed in 2018, the mural is by David Zayas, an artist from Puerto Rico.
Taco Loco used to be located in a small building across George Street, alongside an auto body shop, a small liquor store and Boulter Plywood. That lot is now empty; a redevelopment plan filed in March 2018 calls for a development that includes a 55-foot-tall, five-story mixed-use building with 27 residential units. Five years later, no construction is under way.
Across from the empty lot is Broadway Brake Corp., which has been in business for 86 years.
I'm sure at least one developer has their eye on this lot, which anchors the northern side of lower Broadway.
Holding down the southern side of this end of Broadway are six buildings of varying styles, purposes and vintages. Let's check them out.
20 Broadway was built in 1900 (cough cough), and is home to several businesses, including a place called Repair Center, which specializes in fixing shoes, jackets, luggage and zippers; a place called Bicycle Shop-E; and Computer Clinic. These are not imaginative names for businesses, but they are at least not at all confusing.
The next two buildings are part of the Mount Vernon Restaurant & Pub, which is a place that I have spotted from the southbound lanes of Interstate 93 many a time and wondered, what's the deal with that place?
In business since 1935 specializing in lobster and prime rib, Mount Vernon is somewhat dated on the outside, and I'm guessing the same is true with the inside. The building to the right of the main place has a sign at the door indicating it's home to the "John Henry Room."
Either this building is where the Red Sox' principal owner stays when he's in town, or it's where the restaurant holds functions. The city's assessor says these buildings date to, well, you can guess.
On the rear of the eatery is a nice mural letting folks know about one of the restaurant's specialties.
I'm not sure who painted this.
The last three buildings on Broadway before the highway are on the boundary with Boston's Charlestown neighborhood. Back in March 2019 I wrote about this area, and my confusion as to which city I was in (see March 16, 2019, "Where Am I? Somertown? Charlesville?").
I love the this trio. The height step-up, the brick building flanked by siding-clad buildings, the different colors, the lettering for the stores. All of it. Unfortunately, the convenience store is closed, and there's nothing in the ground-floor space of the blue buildng. I hope that Fadil African Hair Braiding is doing well.
As for the buildings: the one to the right was built in 2016, and contains apartments. There is a dog park off the back. The brick building dates to, ahem, 1900, and has apartments on the upper floors. The braiding store building was built in 2013 and also has apartments.
For more about Somerville, see:
April 1, 2023, "Somerville Junkyard Will Be Scrapped"
And my Union Square series from 2019/2020:
Union Square, Somerville, Part I: New Purposes & Grease Monkeys
Union Square, Somerville, Part II: Factories and Housing
Union Square, Somerville, Part III: Retail and Hangouts
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