Saturday, May 25, 2024

Top Champagne House Inspired This Part of Millis, Mass.

From Dave Brigham:

My expedition to Millis, Mass., bubbled up in a roundabout way. There I was, minding my own business, watching the local TV weather report, when the meteorologist zoomed into an area on the map where rain was particularly heavy. In between Medfield and Medway, two towns I'd certainly heard of, was listed "Clicquot."

"What the heck is Clicquot?" I asked myself. Soon enough, I learned that it's a section of the town of Millis, and that the name has an interesting history.

If you're a champagne afficionado like me -- *cough cough* -- you might recognize the name Veuve Clicquot. From Wikipedia: "Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin...is a Champagne house founded in 1772 and based in Reims [France]. It is one of the largest Champagne houses. Madame Clicquot is credited with major breakthroughs, creating the first known vintage champagne in 1810, and inventing the riddling table process to clarify champagne in 1816. In 1818, she invented the first known blended rosé champagne by blending still red and white wines, a process still used by the majority of champagne producers."

So why is a village in this small Norfolk County town named for the bubbly name-checked by rapper Benny Mayne?

If this smokestack ghost sign with missing letters could talk, it would tell you that for most of the 20th century, the Millis-based Clicquot Club Company was one of the nation's largest beverage companies. "[T]he Clicquot Club Co., known initially as the Aqua Rex Bottling Works company, was established on Curve Street in 1881 by Henry Millis and Charles LaCroix using money Millis received from his father, Lansing Millis. In 1885, the town of Millis was named after Lansing, a retired railroad man of considerable means," according to this Milford Daily News article, citing several sources. "The company took its name, which is pronounced 'kleeko,' from a French champagne, according to Hindy Rosenfeld, a collector of Clicquot Club memorabilia who donated her collection to the town shortly before her death in 1996."

From Wikipedia: "In 1881...Henry Millis...made a suggestion to Charles LaCroix, of the LaCroix Fruit Farm, that he call his sparkling cider 'Clicquot' - after the famous French champagne, Veuve Clicquot - and start selling it....The company produced mainly sparkling cider for the first few years but later on Millis would experiment in other flavors as well. The sparkling cider was soon dropped and the company began focusing mainly on ginger ale. During this time the soda company hired a significant amount of the town's residents and would continue to do so for years to come."

For more than 40 years, Clicquot Club was the largest manufacturer of ginger ale in the world. The Millis plant grew to be quite large, and the company ran other operations across the country. I suspect you know what's coming for the company, which was obviously a major employer in town. "When [the company] was purchased by Cott Beverages in 1971, 500 employees produced 240 million cans and 84 million bottles a year," according to the Milford Daily News article. "In 1980, Cott Beverages closed its doors for good."

The plant is used by a variety of companies these days.

Directly behind the old Clicquot Club site is a large, mostly vacant former industrial site.

"In 1889 the town voted to buy a strip of land from Henry L. Millis located at the south side of Curve street," according to MACRIS. "Four stone buildings were built to house the Steel Edge Stamping and Retinning Plant. These buildings were made of stones gathered from the stone walls on the surrounding farms, the largest portion coming from Oak Grove Farm. For many years the plant had a busy life and its products were sent all over the U.S."

In the ensuing decades, a number of manufacturers called the plant home, including Central Stamping Co., American Flax Fibre, Puritan Carbonating Co., United Cork and Seal, Safepack Mills, the Rubberoid Company and lastly, GAF, which manufactured roofing materials here.

These days, all that's left of the once-massive plant is the stone tower seen below.

You can see the Clicquot smokestack from the old plant entrance on Curve Street.

I'm not aware of any redevelopment plans for this site. The town has been studying and surveying residents and looking into options, which would likely include a mix of residential, commercial and office space.

A little west of the old GAF plant is the local American Legion hall, located in a circa-1925 Craftsman-style Bungalow.

"The Millis Post # 208 of the American Legion was organized in 1920," according to MACRIS. "The Post is active in erecting memorials to veterans of foreign wars in Millis."

Close by, on Plain Street, the Millis Wishing Bridge crosses an old railroad right-of-way.

The bridge is fairly new, replacing a span from 1947. The petition to name it the Millis Wishing Bridge was made a few years ago by the Life Experience School, an "alternative day program for individuals with special needs who are dedicating their lives to provide humanitarian services to their community." Unfortunately, the program is no longer in business.

Along Exchange Street, near the intersection with Main Street, I was over the falls about Niagara Hall.

"Niagara Hall was erected in 1879 for the purpose of housing the 'Niagara' fire engine, which remains a cherished relic today," per MACRIS (see photo below for a glimpse of the engine).

I believe this beauty has also served as a police station and town hall down through the years. The Niagara Coffee Haus, located on the second floor, hosts regular folk, rock, blues, jazz and Americana music acts.

I continued west on Main Street, and after passing the town police station, I looked north on Auburn Road, and could tell there were abandoned railroad tracks up ahead. So I ventured forth.

When walking on tracks like these, I always look behind me every few minutes to a) make sure no punks are following me, and b) to keep one step ahead of zombies. These tracks were owned by the New York, New Haven and Hartford Railroad for a long time. Most recently, they were used by the Bay Colony Railroad. There was also commuter train service through Millis until 1967. I believe there was an old train car along a side track here until fairly recently.

Before too long, I ended up at an abandoned manufacturing facility that I figured dated from the 1960s.

And, according to LoopNet, it was built in 1960. Damn, I'm good. I'm not sure what company most recently occupied the site. An application was filed two years ago to construct a solar array here. I'm not sure of the status of that application.

I really wanted to follow the curve of the tracks into the woods, but I headed back toward the center of town.

Along Main Street, I saw St. Thomas Hall.

Built in 1957, the parish hall is affiliated with the St. Thomas the Apostle Parish, which holds worship services a short walk away, on Exchange Street.

Along Exchange Street, I enjoyed the contrast between the sign for a hair salon and the name WINIKER BLOCK carved into the building.

The building dates to the late 1930s or early 1940s.

Continuing north-northeast along Exchange Street, I was rewarded with a building that, while not as photogenic as Niagara Hall, was my favorite of the day.

(The bell seen in the foreground is believed to have been cast in 1845 by George Holbrook, according to this web site.)

Known as the Lansing Millis Memorial Building, after the founding father, this unique, Richardsonian Romanesque building rose in 1886. "At a special town meeting held Oct. 18, 1885, the heirs of Lansing Millis requested permission to erect a building to be known as a memorial to Lansing Millis," according to MACRIS. "A railroad station was to occupy the first story and the second story was to be devoted for the use of a public library and town offices. This received unanimous approval."

I love the combination of stones and shingles, which gives this municipal building a cozy feel. But the perfect touch is the collection of decorative stones around the front and sides of the building. Again, from MACRIS: "In the erection of this building, the outside walls were made of stones and the citizens were invited to contribute unusual stones that they could gather. Many of Mr. Millis's business friends contributed stones as memorials. These stones were marked with the initials of the corporation donating the stone. In the upper half of the tower there are eighteen such stones and in the lower half, nine."

The town offices remained in the Lansing Millis Building until 1998. The building was leased to a private school at some point. In February 2021, the town received a conditions assessment and feasibility study it had commissioned from Spencer, Sullivan & Vogt. The report acknowledged "the Town’s willingness – and in fact, enthusiasm – to revitalize this building, especially given its current state of disrepair."

In the fall of 2022, the Milford Town Meeting considered, among other warrants, one to provide "$2.9 mil or any other amount" to design, upgrade, construct and renovate the building. I'm not sure of the status of that project.

On the grounds of the old train station is a plaque, the likes of which I'd not seen before.

"MILLIS BROTHERS OF THE BRUSH BELLES AND BEAUX RAZOR BURIAL SITE CENTENNIAL CELEBRATION 1985"

I believe this memorial honors those who went without shaving for some period of time in recognition of the town's 100th birthday. When I was growing up in Simsbury, Connecticut, there was a similar effort whereby men didn't shave leading up to the town's 300th anniversary in 1970. My dad grew a pretty good beard.

Following my trek through Clicquot, I did some MACRIS research and discovered a few other places I wanted to check out. So I returned.

On Myrtle Street, in the Rockville section of town, is yet another fantastic old fire house.

Built in 1924, the station has what MACRIS calls a Folk Victorian look. While there is fire equipment inside, I'm not sure whether it's an active house. It has some cool details.

Along Farm Street, near the intersection with Cedar Street, is the old town pound.

From MACRIS: "The Town Warrant authorized Michael Metcalf's construction on the Town Pound on Farm Street in 1734. The Pound was a holding area for stray animals. Owners paid a fine to the pound keeper when they claimed their animals." I have featured a few other town pounds on the blog, which can be found here and here.

Lastly, I checked out an old railroad trestle spanning the Charles River, connecting Millis and Medfield.

Known as the Charles River Railroad Bridge, this feature dates to 1925.

Saturday, May 18, 2024

Stadium Tour in Franklin Park

From Dave Brigham:

White Stadium, a 75-year-old sports facility located in Boston's Franklin Park that for years has hosted Boston school sports, has been a hot topic in local news since last year. In the late summer of 2023, the owners of the city's entry in the National Women's Soccer League, the Boston Unity, announced a plan with the City of Boston and Boston Public Schools (BPS) to overhaul the aging facility and take over primary usage of the stadium from March to October each year.

Many local residents, in Roxbury and in Jamaica Plain especially, were less than thrilled by this announcement. "'How are we going to keep it for BPS?' said Courtney Leonard, athletic director at TechBoston Academy," in this Bay State Banner article. "'Are we hiring Black and brown people? Is it going to stay 90% for our communities? I want to see more of a commitment for BPS schools and students for access that doesn’t come with a caveat.'"

Over the years, I've been to the Franklin Park Zoo with my kids, and the adjacent old bear cages in service of this blog, (see and December 18, 2019, "Having a Bear of a Time at the Zoo"), so I was aware of the stadium. When I learned about the plan to redevelop it, I figured I should finally venture from the across the playing fields to check it out.

As I walked along a narrow path behind the backstop of a baseball field, I saw a martial arts mentor and student practicing moves on a slight rise above me. I passed a few folks out on a beautiful day walking their dogs. I stopped to watch a father and his young son tossing a football. On the basketball courts just to the southeast of the stadium, I spied about two dozen women in an exercise class, jamming to some dance tunes.

And all the while, in the background, I could hear primates at the zoo calling out to each other.

Franklin Park is an incredible resource for the City of Boston. Wikipedia says this about the park: "Considered a country park when it was formed in the 19th century, Franklin Park is the largest and last component of the Emerald Necklace created by Frederick Law Olmsted. Although often neglected in the past, it is considered the 'crown jewel' of Olmsted's work in Greater Boston....[P]reviously known as West Roxbury Park, [it] was renamed in honor of Boston-born patriot Benjamin Franklin, who documented in his will that he wished for a portion of his estate to be given to a worthy cause. The park brings together rural scenery, a woodland preserve, and areas for active recreation and sports. Franklin Park also has six miles of roads and fifteen miles of pedestrian and bridle paths to explore."

As I mentioned in a previous post about the park, there is also a public golf course and the ruins of an old park superintendent's office on Schoolmaster Hill (see May 11, "Learning About Boston's Schoolmaster Hill").

To be honest, I was expecting the stadium, officially known as the George Robert White Memorial Stadium, after a wealthy pharmaceutical executive who spent much of his life in boston, to be rather boring. I figured I'd make a few quick photos and move on. But boy, was I wrong. I was fascinated by the details on this place, especially at the entrances.

(The west side entrance.)

(West side entrance detail.)

(Near the west side entrance, the original full name of the stadium -- George Robert White Schoolboy Stadium -- is chiseled.)

Below is the south end of the stadium.

The stadium is in pretty rough shape, from what I've read in news stories, and from my basic observations on the day of my visit. Still, this place is unusual in Boston, according to the Boston Preservation Alliance. "The architectural design is unique in Boston. It is a rare example of Streamline Art Deco architecture in New England with a hint of Bauhaus influence," according to this article.

Still, the details! Below is a close-up from the east side entrance.

Whatever happens to the stadium -- there is at least one lawsuit ongoing -- these details need to be preserved. Of course, it would be nice if newer flourishes similar to these were added, as well, particularly ones that reflect the diverse population of the city.

Stay tuned for updates...and for a future post about more of Franklin Park.

Saturday, May 11, 2024

Learning About Boston's Schoolmaster Hill

From Dave Brigham:

As ruins go, the remnants of the superintendent's office in Boston's Franklin Park are about as clean, beautiful and well-built as you'll find.

Located in the heart of the park, overlooking the public golf course, the ruins are the main attraction of Schoolmaster Hill, so named because 200 years ago, this area was home to Ralph Waldo Emerson, his brother and his mother. In his early 20s at the time, the man who would go on to become an inflential preacher, writer, lecturer, poet and philosopher was working as a teacher in Roxbury.

While he didn't live here long, the time he spent in what was then the very rural area known as Canterbury influenced his life. "Emerson spent his spare time walking, reading and writing in his journal," according to Ralph Waldo Emerson: The Schoolmaster of Franklin Park, a book published in 1980 by the Franklin Park Coalition. "The journal entries give a good picture of how Emerson felt about living in Canterbury. And it is from these books that we learn whether the solitude of the woods and meadows was beneficial to the confused, bored young man."

The book quotes Emerson's journal: "I never saw a country which more delighted me. A man might travel many hundred miles and not find so fine woodlands as abound in this neighborhood."

Designed by Frederick Law Olmstead in the late 19th century, the 527-acre Franklin Park, which also features a zoo, a stadium (about which I will write in the near future) and old bear dens (see December 18, 2019, "Having a Bear of a Time at the Zoo"), "is the largest and last component of the Emerald Necklace created by...Olmsted," according to Wikipedia. "Although often neglected in the past, it is considered the 'crown jewel' of Olmsted's work in Greater Boston.

I had the ruins to myself on the late fall day that I visited. I found the stone walls -- amazingly untouched by graffiti -- to be pleasant photography subjects. I wandered at my leisure, comforted by the far-off sound of golfers hitting their drives, chatting with each other and gently revving their carts.

The property was "[o]riginally 'covered by vines on trellises and furnished with tables and seats,' [and] also provided complimentary hot water for visitors to make tea," according to this National Park Service web site. "A multi-use building, it at one time housed the superintendent's office and served as the golf course club house."

There is a plaque on a boulder memorializing Emerson's time here, and sharing some of his poetry.

Make sure to check back for my write-up of Franklin Park's White Stadium, which stands to change drastically in the near future, and another post about features of the park.

A Peep at Greenwich Village

From Dave Brigham: Near the end of August I drove to New York City with my daughter and one of her friends. They wanted to check out New Y...