Absolutely Nothing About the Kennedy Clan Here

From You Know Who:

This post about Hyannis, which is a village of the Town of Barnstable on Cape Cod, was supposed to have more photos. Due to a mental error, the likes of which I've never encountered before, I will have to take those other photos another time. Long story short: I accidentally bumped the settings dial on my camera without realizing it, resulting in several pictures being overexposed and not at all useful.

None of the pictures in this post, or in the Post of the Future, will feature any of the Kennedy clan, known for congregating in Hyannisport to play football, go sailing and flash their big, white teeth.

When I searched "Cape Cod" and "Jack Kerouac" on Google, the first thing that popped up was a mention of The 19th Hole in Hyannis.

I knew, having read Kerouac's On the Road a few times in the last 30 years, that he had mentioned Cape Cod. Turns out, that reference was simply Kerouac talking about how Route 6, at that time, traveled clear across the United States, and that it began on Cape Cod. He didn't actually get on Route 6 for a road trip until the roadway reached New York. Anyway, Kerouac did live on the Cape -- Hyannis to be exact -- for almost a year in 1966, three years before his death. He lived with his mother, and, apparently, was known to bend his elbow at The 19th Hole in downtown Hyannis. So that's why I took that picture.

You know me. When I visit a city or town, I don't go looking for the typical tourist fare. I seek out the oddball, the unusual, the hidden history, the faded memories. So that's what I did over the summer in Hyannis.

McLean's Barber Shop, which has been on the same spot since 1923, is right next door to the tavern. Maybe Kerouac got his haircut here....

The shop closed in 2018, following the deaths of both the son and grandson of the original owner. In 2019, however, according to this Barnstable Patriot article, Matthew and Amanda Kundel, operators of the Cape Cod Barber Shop, took over the business.

Check out the Cape Cod Times video about the shop, below:

Turning the corner from Barnstable Road to Main Street, I was struck immediately by the word MAYFLOWER and the date 1932 carved into the edifice of 334 Main Street.

Currently the home of an outlet of KKatie's Burger Bar, this storefront has a long history of housing restaurants, as well as some great murals that were covered for a long time, rediscovered, then hidden away again. Prior eateries include the Mayflower Restaurant, Priscilla Alden Room, John’s Loft, Sophie’s, Hooters (!) and, most recently, Tommy Doyle’s.

During renovations of the space in 2016, construction crews uncovered seven semi-circular paintings done on the horsehair plaster walls. Those works of art depicted "scenes of Hyannis and other villages of Barnstable as they appeared in the 1930s, including beach shacks, dunes, local harbors and windmills," according to this Cape Cod Times article.

The murals were painted in the 1930s by artist Vernon Coleman for the Works Progress Administration, which created jobs for artists during the Great Depression, according to the Times article. Coleman (1898-1978) painted more than 100 murals for the WPA, and founded the Cape Cod Art Club, which is now the Cape Cod Art Association, per Wikipedia. Although his paintings are cool and historic, alas, they couldn't be saved. They were bricked over. Make sure to click the link above and look at the photos.

Continuing east on Main Street, I came across the Federated Church of Hyannis.

Built in 1957, later than I'd figured, the sanctuary is the fifth church to be located on this site, per MACRIS. Baldwin Hall, below, is attached to the church, and dates to 1939.

A few doors down is the Igreja do Evangelho Quadrangular (Foursquare Gospel Church) of Hyannis, located in a storefront building that dates to 1910. Foursquare churches are evangelical Pentecostal Christian houses of worship. The denomination's name represents the four aspects of the Department of Christ: Savior, Baptizer with the Holy Spirit, Healer and Soon-coming King, according to Wikipedia, and had nothing to do with the playground game I loved as a kid.

The building at 296-98 Main Street is known historically as the Megathlin Drug Store, per MACRIS. In 1926, the store was sold to the Louis K. Liggett Co., which occupied the first floor and basement while the upper floors were rented as office space, according to MACRIS.

A few doors down is the circa-1905 Wilson's Grocery Store building.

Most recently home to the Baybridge Clubhouse, a community of support for individuals who are in recovery from mental illness, this place stuck out to me because of the poster slapped on the facade. It portrays John "Mad Jack" Percival, "a naval officer who served his country during the War of 1812, the Mexican-American War and "the campaign against West Indies pirates," according to Wikipedia. Perhaps the most amazing story from Mad Jack's life is his piloting the USS Constitution around the globe in 1844-45, as I mentioned in an October 2018 post about a small slice of Barnstable, Mass., which features Percival's gravestone.

Across Center Street from Mad Jack's poster is the headquarters of the Cape Cod Central Railroad.

Built in 1880 and since "altered beyond recognition," per MACRIS, the station was built as a private home. Really more of a commercial spot, with a store and ticket counter for scenic and dinner train rides as well as a small food mart, the building was situated behind a train depot, which was demolished in 1950. "The present building probably incorporates the [Baxter] House which stood on the site at the turn of the century," per MACRIS.

Across Main Street, on the corner of Pleasant Street, is a nice mural on the side of the Cash Block building.

Home to Bradford's Hardware since 1892 (!), the building once had a pool hall in the basement, per MACRIS. While that's apparently gone, there may still be two bowling lanes down there. As for the mural, it was painted in 2016 and is a gateway to the Sea Captains Row neighborhood, according to this Cape Cod Times article.

Located on Pleasant Street, which heads south from Main Street to the harbor, Sea Captains Row features homes from the 1800s. It was named one of Massachusetts' Most Endangered Historic Resources by Preservation Massachusetts in 2016. One of the few remaining seafarer homes along Pleasant Street is the Captain Allen Crowell House, below.

Built in 1852, this Greek Revival house is currently an inn, as best as I can tell. Capt. Crowell was born in 1821, and was one of the more well-known sea captains in Hyannis, according to MACRIS. "In 1847, Crowell, along with Capt. Rodney Baxter, carried supplies to Ireland during the dread potato famine," MACRIS indicates. "During his entire career, Capt. Crowell never was involved in a nautical accident, indeed a rarity in any era."

While the Cape is a huge tourist destination, it is still an active fishing and seafaring community, although nowhere near as busy as it was 200 years ago. In the 1800s, the area had nearly 700 sea captains that traveled the world, according to the Crowell House web site. "The various captains that lived on this street, interacted with historic events such as: The Revolutionary War, War of 1812, Civil War, and The Spanish American War," the web site continues.

There is a development being built across from the Crowell House called -- you guessed it -- Sea Captains Row. One-, two- and three-bedroom apartments will be available. Plans call for two artists-in-residence to live and work in two new studios located in the former Patriot Press building, seen below.

Built in 1840, this building is known historically as Freeman Tobey General Store, per MACRIS. Tobey ran the store until his death in 1863. Freeman Chase and E.G. Crowell then took over the business. In 1892, the successor to Chase and Crowell, Capt. Allen Baxter, sold the building to the Goss family, owner of several newspapers. The Hyannis Patriot was located here, as was its successor, the Barnstable Patriot.

A short distance away, overlooking a marina and steps from the Hyannis Ferry Terminal, is the Anchor In Hotel. The building dates to 1955; I'm not sure whether it has always been this hotel. I love the hotel's sign.

Back on the corner of Main and Ocean streets, I spied the cool sea-creature artwork below.

This building, which dates to 1935, has been emtpy for several years, as far as I can tell. Constructed as an A & P Grocery Store, it has housed a restaurant, a movie theater, an art museum and an art gallery, among other businesses I'm guessing. In 2008, the building was up for auction, but the sale was postponed because a co-owner had filed for bankruptcy. The foreclosing lender accused the owners of trying to "avoid paying a combined $44 million in debt by filing multiple bankruptcies and lawsuits," per the Cape Cod Times article linke in the prior sentence. The owners, in turn, claimed the lender had "tried to bully him...and other business owners across the Cape into ceding control of their projects and employing loan-to-own schemes and other fraudulent methods." The lender, of course, denied those claims.

In the ensuing years, the building, which has of course continued to decay, has changed hands four times, most recently for $100 in April 2019, according to the Barnstable assessor's office. I have no idea if this building will eventually be torn down. As for the murals on the side, I haven't been able to determine who made them. They are part of Arts Barnstable's Smile Spots project.

A few doors down heading southwest is the former Masonic Hall.

Dating to 1923, the old fraternal organization headquarters was in use until the 1960s, per MACRIS. This building was where the first movies in Hyannis were show, MACRIS reports. These days, the building is home to apartments, an art gallery, a bakery and other small businesses.

Continuing in that direction on Main Street, on the opposite side of the street I spied a cool architectural detail on the Puritan Cape Cod clothing store.

Built in 1925, this building is known as the Colonial Block. Among the original tenants, according to MACRIS, were the Telephone Exchange, a paint store and a restaurant. Later tenants included Woolworth's and the Cape and Vineyard Electric Company.

I may not have been able to deliver all the shots I wanted to, but at least I got the pink bus.

According to a 2014 Cape Cod Times article, the bus dates to 1966, and was supposed to be converted to a mobile repair lab for Nifty Nate's, the computer repair business in whose parking lot the bus sits today.

With any luck, I'll have more Hyannis shots sometime this fall.

Stafford Springs, Part III: Motorin'

From Dave Brigham:

I took that picture for my buddy Andy, who loved going to stock car races at Stafford Motor Speedway with his dad and brothers when he was a kid. Andy lives in Seattle now, so I thought he would enjoy this trip down memory lane (or should I say "pit lane"?). Let's all learn a little more about this race track in north-central Connecticut, in this third and final installent in my series about Stafford Springs (see Part I and Part II).

While automobile racing started here after World War II, this site was previously a place where city slickers and country bumpkins alike could enjoy horse racing. Known at its birth in 1870 as Stafford Springs Agricultural Park (and also as the Stafford Fairgrounds), the track was located near a trolley line, so folks from the big city -- Hartford -- could enjoy the racing, according to the speedway's web site.

After World War II, "Midgets, Sprint Cars and an occasional new form of racing from the South called stock cars made Stafford a regular stop on a circuit that saw names like Bill Schindler, Johnny Kaye, George Flemke and Joe Ciski take checkered flags," according to the web site. "Bill France, Sr. unveiled his Daytona Speedway in 1959 and Stafford Speedway saw France’s vision. They entered into a long term agreement with France’s organization called NASCAR and hosted weekly NASCAR events through 2020."

Originally a dirt track, Stafford converted to asphalt in 1967. I had exactly zero interest in stock-car racing as a kid. When Andy and I lived briefly in New Mexico in 1988, however, he took me to my first track, Albuquerque's Sandia Speedway. I had a great time and, frankly, I could totally go for some car-jamming right about now.

After shooting a few pictures at the track, I walked through downtown Stafford Springs. I was fortunate to get a shot of a stock car being hauled through town on a trailer, as you can see below.

The car was coming out of the parking lot for one of the car's sponsors, American Sleeve Bearing, which is located on the south side of the train tracks behind Main Street. The company, which also owns buildings on the main drag, manufactures standard inch and metric sleeve bearings and bushings, per its web site.

For more about former horse tracks, see May 10, 2019, "Downs In the Dump," February 20, 2011, "Lose, Place or Show" and September 6, 2010, "UPDATED: Horsing Around at the Old Barracks".

Stafford Springs, Part II: Other Than the Mills

From Dave Brigham:

I decided to explore Stafford Springs, Conn., because it's a mill town (see August 27, 2021, "Stafford Springs, Part I: The Mills"). I love shooting photos of old factories and mills, as I think is evident if you've spent more than two minutes reading this blog. But I also love the homes, municipal buildings, commercial architecture and churches that were built around these manufacturing facilities during their heydays. So in this post, I will look at those types of buildings in this village that serves as the downtown for the town of Stafford.

The first place that caught my eye -- and did so like no other commercial building in town -- was Full Sail Tattoo on East Main Street.

Established in 1994, the inking business appears to have run dry, unfortunately. This beautiful painted lady (not in the traditional sense of a Victorian home, but still...) dates to, well, I'm not sure. I found the year 1900 online, but I don't believe it. I'm guessing this place was erected at least 10 years prior.

Steps away is the Paradiso Building, which dates to 1930.

The building is home to Paradiso Insurance. It is located across from the American Woolen mill complex, so I'm guessing there may have been related offices here, or retail outfits, back in the day.

Just up Furnace Avenue is what I believe is the former home of the Stafford Springs Press newspaper.

The newspaper was in operation from 1883 to 1935. This building appears to be a private home, or apartments.

Next door to the old Press office is a little building that rivals the tattoo shop for ornate beauty.

Home to Orchardworks, a hand-carved magic wand maker (!), this gem dates to 1900 allegedly, but again, I believe it's older. The shop is run by what I assume is a husband-and-wife team. "Ed is an aerospace engineer by day, moonlighting in the workshop handling wand design, custom shaping work, and overseeing all of the woods and tools that we use. Janet works full time shaping, finishing, & delivering our wands to delighted customers all over the world," per the web site.

How enchanting!

Heading south on River Road, I spied Hyde Autoworks, located in what appears to be a nicely restored building.

The company, which specializes in "wild custom hot rod restorations," per its web site, has been in business since 1996. I like that they kept a few old automotive signs (photo below) on the outside of the building, which dates to 1930.

Doubling back toward the main drag, I walked past Shamrock Laundry, which is unfortunately out of business.

Then I looked west, up Highland Terrace, and saw the gorgeous church pictured below.

Grace Episcopal Church dates to 1876. I love the red clapboard, the bell tower, the fact that this house of worship is built into the hill. And right next to the church is an equally fantastic building.

The Stafford Historical Society building dates to 1885. It was built as the town library, and has also servede as a judge's office, office for a woolen company and the bottling house of the Stafford Mineral Waters Company, according to this post from the CTMQ blog.

Behind the historical society building is a mineral spring house, a remnant of a once wildly popular business offering allegedly curative waters, and the inspiration for the village's name.

The mineral spring -- thought by some to have therapeutic value due to the existence of minerals or other dissolved substances -- was discovered by the Nipmuck tribe that preceded European colonists. Among the colonists who availed themselves of the spring water was John Adams, who later in life, of course, went on to become the second president of the United States.

Naturally, businesses grew up around the spring. "In 1767 a direct stage route was established from Boston to Stafford Springs to capitalize on this budding resort’s popularity and make it more easily accessible," according to this Connecticut Explored article. "Through the early 1800s, visitors to the springs would stay at small hotels such as Child’s, Colburn’s, and the Green. In 1802, Dr. Samuel Willard bought the property and built the Stafford Springs House to accommodate patrons of the miracle water. His clientele grew as the springs’ reputation continued to spread, enabling Willard to expand the hotel."

The whole affair began to go downhill as the Saratoga Springs area in New York began to grow in the late 19th century. I'm not sure when Stafford Springs mineral water dried up as a business venture.

Moving on....

Beyond the mineral house is Hyde Park, where I saw the impressive memorial below.

The Warren Soldiers Monument was dedicated in 1924, and honors those who, like the sculpture's donor, Col. Charles Warren, fought in the U.S. Civil War. Warren was born and died in Stafford. He "had a distinguished military career that extended for the entire four years of," the Civil War, according to this web site. "He enlisted as a private in October 1861, soon became a sergeant, and rose through the ranks of commissioned officers as he served in a continuous series of campaigns. He led his regiment into Richmond in April 1865. After the war, Warren opened a general store in Stafford...and engaged in other successful business activities. He was president of the Stafford Savings Bank, built the Warren Block downtown, and gave to the town Warren Memorial Hall, which was dedicated January 31, 1924."

The sculptor was Frederick Ruckstull, who created many similar monuments around the country, including some Confederate memorials, according to Wikipedia.

At the intersection of River Road and Main Street sits the former Stafford Springs train station.

Built by the Central Vermont Railroad, the depot is currently home to the town's police department. I've been unable to find out what year this station was built. Trains are still active through the village, as the New England Central Railroad runs freight through here between East Alburgh, VT, and New London, CT.

Next to the train station, in a building that also features an ice cream shop, is Hairy Karry's Barber Shop.

Originally I thought this place was called "Hairy Harry's," which I liked. But I dig the actual name even more. I have a thing for funny/clever barbershop and salon names.

Across Main Street is the neat little green building housing Makuch & Company, CPA, and Willington Financial, two related businesses.

I believe this building dates to 1930.

There are so many neat old buildings in Stafford Springs, many of them nicely restored. I didn't shoot everything on Main Street, but just about. I'll run down the north side first and then the south. First up after the financial building (after a few that I found unworthy) is the building housing Rustology Antiques and Oddities.

This place looks great, sort of a Nutmeg State version of the American Pickers shop in Le Claire, Iowa. This place dates to 1908. Below is a peek through the front window.

Next door is the home of Ocean Asian Restaurant.

The CRCOG Tax Parcel web site indicates this building dates to 1900. The siding makes it look newer, but also not as attractive as the Rustology building.

Heading west, I came to a site unlike any I've seen in the several old mill towns I've explored over the years.

Located in what's called the Main Street Fruit Tree Trail, which is maintained by the Stafford Garden Club, this art-filled park sits in the remnants of buildings that collapsed some years ago, according to a friend who lives in town. The park contains several shrubs, trees and plants that produce edible fruits, berries and herbs. The public is encouraged to help themselves to a small sampling.

As for the murals, I've been unable to find out who painted them. There are several, and they are all bursting with color and life and imagination. Also located in the park is a bench dedicated to "Mamma" Teresa Andreoli (1926-2019), who lived in Stafford. "Main Street was her life," the inscription says. There is also a picture of the Arizona Restaurant, which I assume Mamma owned.

Continuing west, we come to a nice stretch of old commercial buildings. A plaque at the roofline of the building below says "1936."

This place is home to Smoker's Emporium. Look closely at the top of the building, and you'll see a peaked roof. The brick of the storefront is an add-on to a modest apartment house that is obviously older.

Next door is the Palace Theater, which dates to 1900.

The theater hosts concerts (James Montgomery Blues Band, Riders On the Storm [Doors Tribute]) and other events (fundraisers, weddings). It was founded as vaudeville theater, and began featuring movies by 1941, per Cinema Treasures. This place closed in 1960, but reopened at some point as a bar. I'm not sure how long it's been a live-music venue.

(One of two horse heads flanking the front door of the theater. I'd love to know the story behind them.)

Next up is the Arizona building, which dates to 1922.

Now home to J&D Pizza, Pub & Grill, this building was once the home of the aforementioned Arizona Restaurant. To get a sense of that eatery, scroll down on this link.

The next building is small, but I love the cut of its jib.

Most recently (I think) the home of the Stafford Seamstress, this place is known as the L.H. Carvais Building. It dates to 1900. I couldn't find out anything about the Carvais clan.

The next place dates to 1933, and is home to the wonderfully named Blazing Saddles consignment shop and Laura Claman Equine Solutions.

Next door is an empty storefront...I think. I believe it was (or possibly is) home to Mocko's Propane Gas Service. The building dates to 1928.

Across Main Street, in what appears to be a long, narrow storage building (possibly formerly used by an appliance company), is a series of super-cool town-themed murals.

The one above shows, on the left, Hyde Park, location of the Civil War Monument mentioned previously, and Stafford Fairgrounds, also known as Stafford Springs Agricultural Park, where there was horse racing up until the end of World War II. This area is now known as the Stafford Motor Speedway. In my final Stafford Springs installment, I will write about the race track.

The mural above shows, on the left, the Baker Furniture Co. factory, as well as a streetcar; on the right people are shown fetching water from the aforementioned mineral spring. The furniture company was established in 1807, and closed in 2015.

Continuing east, on the south side of Main Street, I saw the obviously rejiggered building below.

Home to a Farmers Insurance agent, this building dates to 1900 (allegedly) and is owned by American Sleeve Bearing, an industrial company located on the other side of the train tracks from Main Street.

Next door to that odd building is the Bidorini Building, which dates to 1915 (here's why I always doubt the year "1900" when I see it in assessor's databases...this place is listed as being built in that year, but the building iteself says "1915" on it)

I'm assuming this was the former home of Bidorini Bakery & Grocery, references to which I found online. Currently occupying the space is the Stafford Cidery, home of Crazy Cock Cider. Cock-a-doodle-do!!

Next door at 58-64 Main Street is a pair of buildings also allegedly built in 1900.

To the right is #64; I'm not sure what's in that building. Like the Farmers Insurance building mentioned above, this place is owned by American Sleeve Bearing. On the left is #58, home to ESP Pottery. The store/gallery offers lessons. I dig the funky threshold, below.

The last building on this block is home to the Stafford Coffee Company and the Stafford Academy of Dance.

This place also dates to -- you guessed it -- 1900. Allegedly.

To wrap up this post, below are some photos taken of the backside of the last few buildings I wrote about. These shots were taken from a driveway leading to American Sleeve Bearing, looking across the railroad tracks.

That sign says, "FLAG OILER DO NOT SAND." A flag stop (or request stop or whistle stop) is a station at which trains will only stop if there are passengers or freight to pick up. I don't know anything about oiling or sanding flags that mark these stations.

This is the backside of the pottery store

I just love that little tableau above.

I'm a sucker for graffiti. As I mentioned above, I shot these on property owned by American Sleeve Bearing, a company that will come into play again for the final Stafford Springs post, coming soon.